@yellowapple Have you tried "Reset" in the Setup menu, or any other kinds of camera resets? (maybe there's something in the diagnostics menu?) Did the issue start with firmware 1.1 or did you notice it for 1.0 as well?

@larsarus

I have already tried resetting the camera (setup>reset), nothing changed. I can't find any other ways for resetting the camera.

I don't remember exactly if this issue was also noticeable with firmware 1.0. I have started using RAW for timelapses only in the last month, before of this I always used .jpg so I can't say it for sure.

@maxr

In the RAW timelapse tests I have done the setting were: 1) i.Dinamyc OFF 2) i.Resolutuon OFF 3) electronic shutter OFF (I also tried a timelapse with electronic shutter, and the color shift was still there) 4) Long Shutter NR ON (even if on, all the timelapses with the issue have been made with a shutter speed 1/40 or higher, so NR doesn't even activate) 5) I tried both Shading Comp. on and off with no difference

You are right, the colors shifts from green/blue to magenta, and in my tests I have seen that this shift sometimes corrupt lots of images in a time-lapse, sometimes only a few pictures.

I also tried changing "color space" from Srgb to AdobeRGB (rec>Color space), but looks like this has nothing to do with the color shift.

I have tried Capture One anther time, an it looks like that this problem is less noticeable! I will check the RAW files with this application some more time to be sure.

@maxr

Looking at your pictures, it seems that the color shift reason is releated to the Adobe applications. I can clearly see that your two raws opened and edited in Lightroom have a noticeable difference in color, the right one is more green. I'll try some more comparisons tomorrow to confirm this.

@maxr

I have tested Rawtherapee, Capture One and Apple Aperture with a timelapse in srgb and one in adobe rgb: I can confirm that color shift happens even with these all applications. It looks like that the shift is always noticeable, but depending on the application it's color is different. But, no matter what color is it, the shift ruins every timelapse.

I really don't know what's the reason causing all this trouble. The camera? The applications? This issue is going to make me crazy.

@leonbeas, I think you are right, I should try to contact them. I am also interested in understanding if this issue is a common problem or only a problem with my camera or editing. Because of @Maxr tests, it seems that he can replicate this issue too, and this make me think that this could be a common problem for GH3 users. It would be interesting to see if some more GH3 users can replicate the color shift like Maxr did, but maybe not too many of them are interested in using RAW files for timelapse.

@larsarus I think that for many "common" timelapses this problem may be unnoticeable: the color shift is evident only in underexposed/darker areas, and if you do not need to increase their exposure, you probably won't even notice it (that's the same for landscapes with lots of light). I have done several timelapses in the recent past, but I discovered this problem only after doing timelapses in places with wider dinamic range that needed exposure to bee increased in shady areas.

I am doing some tests now too see if this may be related to specific ISO value.

@larsarus also did a time-lapse in raw format with full manual settings, and he has needed to increase exposure in almost dark areas. He got the color shift that makes underexposed areas flickering.

It looks like this is a common problem and not specifically related to my GH3 camera.

Do you mean jpeg vs raw, if so, one is heavily compressed while the other don't, and if you are comparing a still with video well that's another thing, video frame is usually a lot smaller. 1080p is not even 2 megapixels.

Never mind I think it's just some intense denoise going on in the jpeg compression.

CRAZY CRAZY STUFF, GREEN BLUE MAGENTA YELOW, SOmethnig realy worng here

Hi. I wonder if you aren't expecting far too much from the GH3, or any camera, for that matter? You are starting with an essentially black, seriously under exposed image, and then pushing it by, how many EVs? 4 or 5? Do you expect the essentially black initial exposure to respond perfectly well? I think that is too much to expect? I agree the color shifts are pretty bad, but..well...the ROI in the initial exposure is almost black, so, you are amplifying a ROI with almost NO SIGNAL content. I think that is the root of the problem. The post processing tries to boost black to somecolors, but...since the signal content is so low, the huge boost in the exposure is unstable with respect to color balance. Just my take, for what it's worth. As you've said...you only see this issue when you try to correct for grossly underexposed areas in your clips. Maybe you just shouldn't try to push such underexposed areas so hard?

Hi all,

I'm a Toronto-based TV editor. Overall I absolutely love the GH3, and am more amazed by it every day. But...

I'm surprised no one has mentioned spontaneous exposure / gamma shifts in long recordings...? I have two GH3 cameras, and know two other GH3 users here in Toronto, and all four cameras are doing the same thing. Even when the video is set to Manual exposure (which we always do), and even in unchanging studio lighting, the video will abruptly change brightness every minute or two.

The shutter speed, aperture, and ISO do NOT change... yet the recorded video changes drastically from one frame to the next, as if it just jumped an F-stop.

I know that this is not connected to the auto-brightness issue on the rear monitor -- I have tested, and though the brightness shifts look just like the ones that happen when auto-brightness for the rear monitor is on, they do not happen at the same time.

So far, I have been able to cut around the jumps in exposure. However, I know if this isn't fixed, I may miss irreplaceable shots.

Is anyone else experiencing this on long recordings? And if so, do you know a fix?

I'm also very irritated by the screen info disappearing after 10 seconds, as are all of my TV colleagues.

Another question: does anyone use the SmallHD DP-6 monitor with the GH3? If so, have you noticed that the DP-6 crops the video image substantially? Is there any way to fix this? If not, it makes it difficult to use it to assess framing.

Lastly, I Tried the GH3 with the Atomos Ninja-2 and was very disappointed. The GH3's HDMI output when recorded seemed to have a greatly reduced contrast range, and noticeable shift in color and gamma. I don't know if other recorders do better, or if this is a GH3-related issue.

@yak I was comparing video frames to jpeg, I took a jpeg 2M burst at 20 frames per second. Took out the first 24 frames... size is 12MB, while a second at 24p 72Mb/s (64Mb/s recorded) is about 8MB/s.

There may be a difference in pixel density between stills and video mode?