I did a small test with the Oly 14-35mm F2.0 and a window frame (outside was bright blue sky).
with tape = electronics disabled by tape
Looks like as soon as the camera sees a (m)4/3 lens, it applys some sharpening/contrast - even when there is no distortion correction going on.
The second picture shows how that process eats up details and also changes the colours a bit - pretty stupid, as the 14-35 dosn't need any corrections.
Maybe i will buy one of this cheap m4/3-4/3 adapters ( http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/1612 ) and add a small switch to disable the electronical connection when everything is set. What happens to the camera when the lens gets detached without using the lens-release-button?
Edit: Just realised that I used still images. So this "corrections" are even applyed to still images.
@_gl I just ordered my first, non-legacy lens - a Panasonic 14mm pancake. Please share your interim preferred shooting settings with the rest of us owners. (I'm a halo-hater too)
@Roberto, I still shoot with the 14mm. I just have sharpening & contrast on -2. I don't know how much it helps with this, I just generally want more flexibility in post. In a way the in-cam sharpening is not too bad for my 3D work, as both images get transformed in post (to align them) which softens them a bit anyway - but I'd still prefer to disable it completely.
Has anyone tried selectively covering the contacts? Maybe there is a way to keep AF but defeat correction/sharpening.
What happens to the camera when the lens gets detached without using the lens-release-button?
@Psyco, good question. Probably the same as removing it, I suspect the release switch is purely mechanical with no electronic signal.
You can try the new matrixes from Driftwood, Dark Matter and Sedna will be less sharp when you set sharpness to -2 than stock afaik. This should help a bit.
I have the panny/leica 25mm. While I love sharp lenses, I do see an increase in the stacatto effect. After comparing it with the voightlander, which is softer, it's clearly different. I've had good luck with 1/40 and even 1/30 shutters. But it feels weird to use those speeds. Digital is different. I ordered a panny 14 cheapo to try with my la7200 anamorphic, (which I'm going to sell soon) My guess is that the 14's electronic coupling with the gh2 might try to correct the anamorphic attachment's abberations, if there are any.
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