I could answer on behalf of leckel1996, the images have been taken with a magenta lens filter on and later color grading is applied on one side of the image. Basically shifting green - magenta ratio in editing program should white balance the image and restore normal colors. In practice different software and methods yield different results.

I have a small video on YouTube produced using GH1 and these methods combined. It's meant to test the low light capabilities. If it's okay to link to it, here it is:

@Diffusion33 All I know about B&W, at least on the GH1, is if you shoot max iso of 3200 in color, it's FPN galore. If you shoot it in black n white smooth, it's very usable. Noisy, but cleans up good with some light noise reduction. Don't think using a color filter to shoot BW will do anything.

But, if you shoot in color with the filter then convert to BW, the extra color information in blue and red channel MIGHT help.

This thing definately does work. The image i'm getting out of my gh1 is incredible, and would be better with an ultra con and/or a black pro mist. I don't see why everyone is getting all worked up about this. Try it if you want to, don't if you aren't interested in the extra time it takes to get what is, imo, a better looking image. It does make the image better, and I have zoomed in and noticed problems on unfiltered images that I didn't find with the filtered and corrected image. At this point using the filter is quite a pain to get the colors back to where they should be, but there is an improvement. In saying that, however, it is the subject of the film that ultimately matters and not slight increasing in detail in the red and blue channels. People not using this method will continue to enjoy their gh1/gh2, and those using it might just enjoy using it slightly more at the cost of some extra post time.

The issue is actually not about light, but luma/chroma ratio. Chroma is too lean and encoded with too few bits causing mosaic and banding. It has been proven already to be rather effective way to add chroma and have a flatter picture profile, both at the same time. If you are not capturing beefier colors and flatter contrast on location, you are missing out. There is no way to fix them in post, other than using some band-aid technique.

@svart Deducting Green is the same as adding magenta. Compressing the contrast and pushing colors upward is just adjusting the green - magenta shift. Encoding uses progressively more precision and latitude for brighter f-stops. Hence the filtered color channels have already been recorded and encoded with better precision.

For best results for white balancing compressed images I recommend to try Silkypix. It has a slider 'color deflect', which is often a great tool for this. The GH13 material is not quite high quality enough to white balance entirely all the time, but GH2 material might be. Haven't tested yet. Hopefully will soon.

Certainly magenta can be eliminated very well from jpeg images taken at 3k resolution, but only RAW images allow white balancing fully in post. For me there was a need for beefier colors, not more accurate.

Instead of purple filters, how about a minus green gel for testing?

Yes they are. You can see that the blue channel levels reside at higher levels for the filtered version. This means recording colors with better precision. Another thing is that the camera uses less gain for stronger color signals.

Fully agree. Let's just continue with the research without personal agendas or ambitions.

@zcream Color is one third of the data (4 + 1 + 1), so 3.6 units more to 33.3 is10.8% more color to grade. Still insignificant? What about the higher and more precise black levels?

zcream, I made a question for you in the previous page. Why not answer that before continue with various demands and claims about "claims"? Just a suggestion, of course.

@lpowell Did you look at the MTS files I provided and illustrated in the other thread? Is it possible to get any more compression out of the 25p iW GOP-2 settings for GH13?

@stray "I think what @lpowell and @driftwood are doing with changes to the encoders matrix is having more of a positive effect to how colour is encoded than this approach is (until we get to alter film modes)."

Your thinking is incorrect, because the filter is a pre-capture filtration and as such can not be duplicated in software. No changes in the software will modify the sensor in the camera or alter the ratio of the channel data to be captured. Besides the filter other alternative is to color the lights used to illuminate the subject, hardly a practical solution.

Stray, you are mixing pre-capture and post-capture which are two separate points of data manipulation. I think lpowell does that too, he was rather confused about it in the deleted thread. What I'm saying is that I would not be too optimistic about hack settings eliminating banding and posterization.

@Stray I've wondered if the filter is really necessary indoors in controlled lighting since, to me, proper exposure and lighting is ultimately more important than grading so I don't think I'd ever do the filter method indoors, but I personally do like how it looks outdoors. I'm going to do a outdoors test next shooting some bushes and I'll use a cheap ND filter to try and match the softness of the purple filter.