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Tips for real time video editing - fast workflow
  • If you shot video and you need to save time to do other things in life or if you have lots of work to do or if you have a short deadline these tips will help you:

    1. Take note on set about which take you liked most if you do some takes for each scene, so you dont need to review all takes to choose, or you just need to watch them one time to confirm
    2. Record audio in camera to avoid the need to sync audio in post, there are good mics which deliver high signal and you can turn down the audio level in camera to get a more clean audio without preamp noise. Boya mics are cheap and works good for low budget people. If you need gradding in the audio with equalize and noise reduction in post you can create and save a preset to apply in all audios.
    3. Use standard profile in camera because it does not need image gradding and deliver great quality
    4. Adjust shadow/highlight levels in camera so you can get a good gradding baked in camera
    5. Use dymanic range optimizations in camera, each manufacturer has its own nomenclature, see this article:
    6. Set the correct exposure in camera using manual control to avoid the need of corrections in post. Most of times you will decide for a perfect people skin exposure, sometimes you will decide for a more dark exposure to simulate a dark place, sometimes a more bright image like a dream, use your creativity. Try to perceive the light relationship between shots so you dont need to calibrate the shots with each other.
    7. Set the correct sharpness setting in camera you like most to avoid sharpening in post production
    8. Set the best looking noise reduction amount in camera to avoid using neatvideo and other noise reduction software
    9. Try to use low iso to avoid noise, or to add light if needed to avoid noise in high iso or use a better low light camera like fuji xt30/xt3 with interframe noise reduction or GH5s with dual iso
    10. Only use filters and effects which are real time in editing software timeline, this will make editing playback possible and render faster. There are some filters/effects options which can do almost same thing and some are real time and others are not. Compare them and choose real time.
    11. Avoid using log (slog, vlog flog and so on) because this needs LUT in post production and a different complex gradding in each take, very time consuming in post. If you do a good dynamic range preservation in camera you can avoid log. Fuji cameras have the DR400 setting wich deliver great dynamic range baked in camera. Sony and Panasonic cameras can shot in 110 IRE and you can adjust the image to 100 IRE in post production with a real time filter to recover the highlights, just build and save a filter preset for this. These workflows can deliver same results as LOG without the need of gradding in post. Also you have shadow highlight setttings in camera.
    12. If you shot 4k video, choose 420 8bit 100mbps because it can playback without sttuter frames in editing timeline without the need to transcode to intermediate codec in a quad core computer. 422 video or 10bit video or 200mbps/400mbps video are very processor intensive impossible to playback without transcoding. 420 8bit 100mbps video with a good gradding in camera can deliver pretty good results without macroblocking and color/lumabanding if you dont need to do heavy gradding in post production.
    13. If you need to upscale from 720p to 1080p or from 1080p to 4k, first do your cuts editing and just upscale the footage you really need. upscaling using third part plugins is time consuming.
    14. For cut, wipe, dissolve, you do not need intermediate codec. Maybe you just need intermediate codec if you will do picture in picture or chroma key because you will need to playback two or more video files at same time and then you need a fast codec like cineform 10bit 422 because it uses low processor power.
    15. Develop a gradding for your camera that can be used in all scenes and save a preset with all filters and effects togheter. If you do correct exposure, and dynamic range compensation in camera then you can use the same gradding preset in post production for all shots
    16. Only use SSD for Operating System and for video files. HDD is slow, and more slow when you need to cut between various video files or playback two video files at same time. Avoid HDD
    17. Use a fast memory card and a fast usb 3.0 card reader, so you can transfer video files very fast to the computer
    18. Use simple text editor in the editing software for text on screen, no matter if it is static or moving horizontal or vertical. Text generating in editing software is good enough with fonts, colors, textures, shadows, size, opacity...
    19. Use the same computer to do all the job, avoid transfer files from one computer to another
    20. Only transfer video files at the end of work for backup in external storage, use fast usb 3.0 storage, and avoid HDD because it can fail
    21. Use a 4k monitor 3840 x 2160 not just because you want to see your 4k footage on it, but because the editing software will have more space for the windows, you can see the timeline, effects, everything. in 4k editing you can set the preview/program video window to 50% size and 50% resolution for better performance in playback and for allow space for the other software windows. you will see 1920 x 1080 pixels wich are good enough for editing. If you edit 1080p then you can set the preview/program video window to 100% size and full resolution.
    22. Use a real time software and a real time gpu, also perceive the computer processor and ram memory you need. With these tips a i5-2400 quad core processor runing at 3.1ghz with 8gb ram and nvidia gt730 gpu with 384 cuda cores and 1gb ram is good enough for 4k (if you dont need chroma key and picture in picture)
    23. Avoid using HDR or HLG in camera. If you do a good dynamic range settings in camera and post production your 420 8bit footage will look the almost the same, and most people will not use HDR HLG monitor
    24. use good stabilization when filming, good handheld or gimbal or steadycam or monopod or tripod or slider. Avoid image stabilization in post production because it takes long time
    25. when setting exposure trust your eyes more than waveform and histogram
    26. use 24p 25p 30p for normal video and 50p 60p only for slowmotion. 50p and 60p is processor intensive for playback and editing
    27. your lens will look better if you close half or one fstop and use it at f8 maximum. example: if it is f1.4 to f16 use it at f2 to f8. the footage will be more sharp and avoid sharp in post production
    28. do correct framing, avoid reframing in post
    29. the electronic viewfinder is great for setting exposure because there is no ambiente light on it, or you can use a black cloth over your head and lcd
    30. record some ambient sound to create ambience among shots and avoid difficult mixing
    31. record a little bit before and after the action to have room for wipe dissolve and cuts, avoid let the camera recording unnecessarily, only record what you need
    32. Do a one time editing everything done in one timeline without render and start again. Only one render. Start with cuts select and organize files and after this do the grafing and titles and then render
    33. Type your tips and advices and reply if you have another suggestions...
  • 8 Replies sorted by
  • Big thanks for post.

    I formatted it to numbered list, simpler to read, I think.

  • I would add one huge one.... Try to film B roll in the sequence you want it to appear. Makes editing a whole lot simpler

  • @Sph1nxster

    Yes, lots of B roll, and need to remember that you shot and that is required :-)

    1. Good idea
    2. I never do that
    3. I don't use standard profile, but it also depends on the camera.
    4. I don't do this, I use the one that gives me latitude.
    5. Not sure what this is :)
    6. On a set, I use manual, but for many things I don't. For example, recording concerts or events I need auto ISO and many cameras don't have that feature in full manual.
    7. I always sharpen in post and undersharpen when filming.
    8. I turn down NR in camera.
    9. Sure, but depends on DOF and other factors.
    10. Agree
    11. Sometimes you have to use log, but I tend not to use it.
    12. Not sure I agree with this--it's better to have good footy and use a proxy.
    13. Upscaling often depends on the source material, but who is filming 720p anyway?
    14. I use proxies for this, not intermediate codecs.
    15. Good in controlled conditions.
    16. SSD is certainly faster, but a raid setup is fine and if your project is 4 terabytes SSD is problematic. Will change soon!
    17. Agree
    18. I don't do that. Also, certain types of moving text need to be handled in different ways.
    19. If you are using a team, you have to have more than one computer.
    20. I use multiple backups.
    21. I use a 4K TV, not a monitor, so I can put the rendered file on a stick and play it back on the TV. But either way, 4K is cheap and necessary for viewing. Calibration is more important.
    22. Those specs don't work for me in Premiere :(
    23. I'm not using HDR now, but I expect to so I need to at least study it.
    24. Agree
    25. Preview on a calibrated monitor.
    26. Lots of choices
    27. Each individual lens has sweet spots, and they are all different. I print a label and mark them on the barrel.
    28. Agree, but but safety margins.
    29. Calibrated monitor with hood for exposure, one that has false color &c. Outdoors is tricky....
    30. Agree
    31. I don't stop the cameras except on breaks. I just delete what I don't want later. That way, I only sync once.
    32. I typed!
  • Easiest method for B-roll, put a quality action cam on top of your A-cam. You wont get a second angle, but with 4K you can easily crop 2x.

  • Basically, get it right in camera wherever possible. I've spent the last 35 years doing this. And NEVER trust anyone who says they'll fix it in post! :)

  • @zcream Yes, has been used to give extra wide angle shots on primetime TV investigation type shows - stick a GoPro onto the lens hood!