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Panasonic GH5 camera: Best settings and issues topic
  • This topic is to discuss about settings on the GH5, as also its issues.

  • 26 Replies sorted by
  • My copy for example, sometimes when I switch on the camera, does nothing, all black. I have to switch-off & then on again, so the camera will start properly working. Anyone has same experience?

  • The focus transition feature is not available with my Panasonic 20mm 1,7 H-H020 Firmware 1.1 lens.

    I hope this can be fixed with a camera/lens firmware update as this is my favorite native Lens.

    Other older lenses I tried do work fine: Panasonic 14mm 2,5 H-H014 Firmware 1.0 OK Panasonic 14-42mm 3,5-5,6 H-FS014042 Firmware 1.0 OK Panasonic 14-42mm 3,5-5,6 H-PS014042 Firmware 1.2 OK

    It would also be great to be able to controll the focus transitions with the panasonic app. Not yet implemented.

  • Hmm, I have only the 25mm f/1.7 from Pana, I'll check if it works with focus transition..

  • Same with mine. Very happy with it.

  • due to the problem I described above, my GH5 has been sent to Panasonic already more than a week now. They say they're waiting a part from Japan, so no camera till the end of the month... Today I had to shoot an event with my Canon 7D, I so much regretted...

  • I checked out a GH5 yesterday in preparation for shooting this weekend. When using manual focus with assist and a vintage lens via adapter, I could not get the assist by touching the screen. It worked with a Panasonic lens. Is there a setting for this? When I went to MF assist in the menu, I saw three icons with no explanation. I tried two settings, but ran out of time before trying the third one. Anyone know about this?

  • The cylinder icon is used when you turn the focus ring on a native lens. This will do nothing with manual lenses on dummy adaptors. The rectangle with four squares icon is to double tap the screen. This is the one you need with manual lenses.

  • Thanks, c3hammer

  • For those using GH5 with anamorphic lenses, you may have experienced a jitter kind of, while using the in-body stabilizer. I've found the solution related to this & applies only if you use non-electronic lenses, so you have the option to manually give a focal length to the camera (the option appears everytime you switch-on the camera & asks you what focal length you use): Put longer focal length than what you actually use, if you have a 50mm on it, give the info to the camera that you're using an 80mm for example. And the jitter goes away...

  • @yiannis_zach Seens that sensor stabilizer with anamorphic adapter makes image whooble (more evident at backgrounds) because the vertical axis misaligment. If you move camera changing vertical axis, you get a great "under drugs" effect.

  • @Grimor

    Need to just bug Panasonic to add setting to anamorphic lenses so you can set proper type like 1.33x, 2x and it'll work. As it is pure algorithm change thing.

  • Yes, but we need a new mode of stabilization without rotation of sensor. (Roll movement)

    Roll axis is the drug here. Not sure if shift and yaw will affect too.

    Kish Optics Mezmeriser Anamorphic/FX Attachment was used to do this intencionally.

    640 x 440 - 45K
    335 x 252 - 56K
  • I found out the hard way that there is an undocumented gotcha. You cannot change the photo style if the Filter Settings menu is engaged. I took an hour of trying various tricks to discover this on set.

  • It would be useful if a lower bitrate mode would exist, for 25p there is nothing between 24mbps AVCHD, and 100mbps in mov or mp4 container, or I'm blind.

    I shot an event where I needed some longer runtimes on 64gb card, ended up shooting AVCHD that really looks like shit, with bitrate that I never shot at since I sold HMC 150, GH2 was always hacked at least to 44mbps or something, so it was kind of funny and frustrating in the same time.

    There should really exist 50mbps 1080p25 (422 10 bit, or at least for 8bit 420, like there is in GH4) in mov container, or something similar to that.

  • Or you could spend like another $30 for a bigger card, for your, y'know, $2,000 camera.

  • I have a GH4 and am renting a GH5 next week. I usually shoot standard or vivid profile. What sharpness setting on the GH5 will equate to "0" on the GH4?

  • @adolega I don't understand your comment, except that you are implying that I am either unaware that there are bigger cards, or cheapskate. So could you please explain your point.

  • The latter. Why spend two grand on a camera and then skimp on cards, especially when they're so cheap anyways? U3 cards are hardly up there in XQD or CFast2 or Red drive territory- they're like 50cents/GB for good cards.

  • I agree GH5 should have 50 Mbs fullhd option. It is not reasonable to fill hard drives with 100 Mbs talking heads if someone shoots seminars or long presents and want good quality fullhd. GH5 has over 100 different video modes, why not 50 Mbs fullhd. I would use it.

  • @adolega Ok, thanks :) Which ones to get, where, how many etc. is more of a question than how much do they cost. And if you are a small production basically, with those apparently micro spendings it adds up fast. But still 50mbps would be needed for many things, it can be quite enough for many situations in terms of IQ, and if you are shooting with 3 or more cameras, file sizes, backup times, data wrangling, turnaround times, everything matters.

  • My card broke inside slot 1 of the GH5, I pressed it in as usual, nothing wild, and heard (more like felt) tiny cracking sound. It is the Sandisk 95mbps card, it still works but the tiny triangular chunk rests somewhere in the slot. The slot also works. Don't know if there is something with the slot design wise, or the card just gave up after few years of hard labour. Just to report.

  • GH5 has a surprising design issue:

    The blinking recording dot blinks too slowly. When recording video the red dot is more off than on and many times I wonder if the recording is on when looking quickly the screen. I have too many videos showing my feet or ground. I had not this issue with GH4.

    I shoot many videos aiming the camera to subject with wide angle and watching the screen just briefly for composition. When I look the screen and I see no red dot I quickly start the video but it was actually recording and it stops. Then my start/stop may be backwards for many videos if I dont monitor the screen carefully.

  • Watch for the time recorded on the left side. This is always on. I find the video button is too far away for my index finger. So I always use normal release button. Also, coming from the GH4, I frequently try to end the video with the thumb, where the video button used to be. Thus I hit the AF/AE Lock button and the recording continues. A bit annoying.