Hello does anybody have a good solution for less dust to enter in the Inside of the 7200 ?
I heard some tape is good but where to seal it up not to sure
Just wanted to bump this topic - I've been testing with a Schneider .25 diopter 67mm in diameter that is great for 2-5 meters. If only I could get one larger.
@leoj I've had mine apart, and it's a very open unit, from back to front. Best place to seal is inside the little protruding hood. But it will be tricky to do so.
I've actually hack sawed the front of mine off now, so it's really simple to tape and seal. Advantages of hacking the front off, are being able to push it up to a circular aperture matte box easier and use wider lenses. My 14-140 now works at about 15mm without vignette now, where previously it was around 17-18mm. I'm also looking at adhesive Velcro for the front, to mount a hi-tech mark 4, 2 slot 100mm filter holder with rotating 105mm ring (for pol).
@plasmasmp I don't think you will struggle in the 2-5m range with many lenses that will require a larger diopter before vignette. The 20/1.7 works with a 72mm diopter taped right up to the front element. The 14/2.5 works well wide open without any diopter.
Here's the results of the .25 diopter behind the lens. This does not effect minimum focus distance, but it does improve the image significantly as you can see in the attached pic.
EDIT: Attached a jpg of a Scarlet X still @ f4 with the .25 Diopter behind the lens
Are you getting a vignette with your 67mm .25 diopter? If not, then I don't see any problems.
What aperture were you shooting the above images at?
Sorry, i didn't read right.....behind the anamorphic...interesting.
When you go up to 4k, you need to be at f5.6 to full resolve that much detail, but even at f4 it has a nice soft FD/Pre Ai look to it
@plasmasmp have you tried the 14/2.5 pancake combination, as I find this lens works well wide open. It's "crazy" wide though :-)
I'm going to have ago mounting my Tokina 0.4 Achromat in front of the LA7200 to see what results it yields.
I'm sure it works with the 14mm 2.5 but you're going to have more CA and barrel distortion. The other problem is that with electronic lenses, the sharpening seems to be more noticeable when the picture is unsqueezed resulting in more noticeable aliasing on the GH2. If Vitaliy finds a way to disable the sharpening completely with 4/3 and m4/3 lenses, I would try and get the Leica 14-50 or the Oly 14-35 working with this method. The Tokina .4 also helps at longer focal lengths to sharpen the lens by mounting it in front and sandwiching the la7200 with the .25 in the rear and the .4 in the front. Downside being you've greatly limited focus distance unless stopped down.
@plasmasmp Thanks for the advice. I've just tried the Tokina .4 in between the 14/2.5 and the LA7200 and there's an improvement in the edges. I was quite happy with it anyway, but that's quite nice. Ironically it had trouble focussing close-up. I wonder if this might work for the 20/1.7 too?
Based on your video, I've just purchased a Heliopan +0.25 Close-Up 52mm, so I'll give that a whirl sandwiched between the LA7200 also.
If you ever get the chance to try out a Bolex 16/32/1.5x, do it. I love the convenience of single focus (and auto when necessary) of the LA7200, but the difference in wide open quality is astounding in comparison. Just a shame the widest lens I can use is 28mm. I'll post a comparison video when I get chance.
I've not noticed the difference in sharpness handling on the GH2. I always presumed the Panny glass was super sharp due to the coatings. I'm currently looking at diffusion to try to soften them up a bit, possibly a Tiffen ULC. Filters aren't the easiest thing in the world to use with the LA7200 either!
I want to buy a Bolex 16/32/1.5x or an Isco 42 but they have dried up it seems. We have an Isco 36 and that's fantastic down to 35mm
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!