https://www.theverge.com/2019/9/9/20856585/focos-2-0-hands-on-portrait-mode-blur-any-photo

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/665053329/veydra-m4-3-cinema-lenses-for-gh4-and-bmpcc

What is Veydra?

Veydra is a premium cinema lens made specifically for filmmakers using Micro 4/3 cameras.

Veydra Mini Prime lenses all feature

• Resolution that exceeds 4K
• Cinema 0.8 module focus and iris gears
• Consistent front 80mm outside diameter & 77mm filter threading
• Similar length for quick lens changes
• Constant T2.2 aperture for easy lighting set ups
• Brass plated mounts for durability.

i just wondered if it is possible to focus on the GH5 via USB-C? Either with a bought device or by building the controller by yourself. Since the Ronin S can do it i am quiet sure it should also be possible for others?

Thank you!

There seem to be several on the horizon, like the Tilta Nucleus-M and Nucleus-N, Zhiyun's mechanical FF, and the Filmpower Nebula FF all sound great but when are any of them actually going to be available? I'm also looking at some of the Ikan and Redrock FF systems, but they're a little outside of my budget. Any others I should be aware of?

Mike

• Focus Transition really only works well for lenses that don't breath- or breath minimally.

• Possibly Panasonic may realise that there is a market for Video Centric MFT lenses

• Panasonic will have to come out with more Video Centric glass to really utilise this feature. Also ParFocal Zooms would be nice!

• If Panasonic created a USB-C follow focus protocol (with accompanying hardware- or allowed other companies to make) it would make me much more interested in native Panasonic glass.

• If Panasonic are 'not' interested in making more Video Centric MFT glass then why put this feature into the GH5 at all? I'm sure it was not simple to code this into the firmware of 'fly-by-wire' lenses.

Price: $230 + shipping

http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/535368761-Electric-follow-focus-zoom-controller-for-5D2-wholesalers.html

I intend to make a series of these showing the unit in action and running a couple of tests regarding battery life, repeatability etc.

I have a short film coming up the the next couple of months where the final scene involves a slow track in on a woman on a bench, it's midnight, there's fireworks and she's crying - easy! The FF becomes a necessity here but after playing around with it, there are so many other situations where I can make use of it.

Interviews - the FF can be used to adjust focus during in an interview situation if you haven't got a camera operator to do the job.

Jib - If I plan a jib shot I set the foreground out of focus but with the FF I can adjust focus throughout the move.

I use a shoulder rig on occasion so I might try to set the transmitter up on one of the arms and see what happens.

If there's anything anyone want's to know or a test they're interested in seeing done - let me know.

Check out the video here:

and here:

The system works by digitally synchronize the taking lens and the anamorphic projection lens through encoded follow focus unit, and motor controlled focus ring

and here:

I love to see a better video auto focus system. DFD has already removed the first wrong direction start of the focus pull, but I like to address the second wrong direction autofocus pull, the "focus confirmation" rack at the end of the auto focus pull.

I'm not an engineer but I like to understand what is happening what, how, where, when and why.

At this moment the Auto Focus system for video looks the same as for stills. And for stills it works fast and well, accept in continuous high when it has a hard time keeping up with fast action. For video (akin to a very high number of stills) the AF is way to slow, and the focus confirmation pull is very distracting and jarring.

If DFD is able to measure the blur amount, and therefore can measure how far the subject is, the I think a reprogramming of the focus system can help to get rid of that jarring focus confirmation refocus.

I can think of this focusing system:

Focus pull situation:

1) DFD measures the amount of blurr, 2) compares it to the current focus distance, 3) estimates subject distance, 4) smoothly starts racking focus, 5) measures amount of blur half way racking focus, 6) checks the blur shift amount of the first and second measurement, outputs second focus target distance, 7) at the last part of the focus rack the focus speed eases off to arrive at the second estimated focus distance.

Continuous AF situations:

1) DFD measures the amount of blurr, 2) compares it to the current focus distance, 3) estimates subject distance, 4) smoothly starts racking focus, 5) measures amount of blur half way racking focus, 6) checks the blur shift amount and compares it to the first measurement, calculates subject movement, 7) rack focus to second focus target distance, 8) checks the blur shift amount and compares it to the previous measurement, calculates subject movement, 9) repeat 7 and 8 until no blur.

10) If subject leaves the frame maintain the current focus distance for x time before starting with 1 on the new subject in the assigned focus area.

Maybe DFD blur measurements are hard & slow, so having measurements while the camera is auto racking focus is harder to do, but I prefer a slower focus much over racking past the focus and racking back in video.

As a compromise DFD could be used to make a 1 time focus distance estimate, the focus racks smoothly (s curve) to the estimated distance, and stops (without racking past the estimate focus distance AND racking back). This would be good enough for a G85, and the more processing heavy higher DFD sample rate for the high end GH5. I must admit this all hinges on DFD accuracy in measuring the blur and estimating the subject distance.

What do you people think? Love to learn how the current contrast and DFD actually works. Love to hear your suggestions of how to improve AF.

When I manually focus, whether through the LCD or LVF just before the image is in focus to my eye it looks soft and dreamy more so than out of focus, and beyond the subject it will start to actually look out of focus.

I took some when it actually looked IN FOCUS and I feel like it just doesn't look as sharp as my old Canon 60D (By quite a bit to be honest)

I'll post a picture so you can see. I shot this in manual, f/2.8 at 70mm on a tripod with around 160 shutter speed and 200ISO. I'll post a before and after grade.

Before: http://imgur.com/a/H3bPw

After: http://imgur.com/JjxF8ZD

Do you think this is an operator, lens, or camera problem?

Also please do critique my grade, I'm relatively new to all this.

When I focus, whether through the LCD or LVF just before the image is in focus to my eye it looks soft and dreamy more so than out of focus, and beyond the subject it will start to actually look out of focus.

I took some when it actually looked IN FOCUS and I feel like it just doesn't look as sharp as my old Canon 60D (By quite a bit to be honest)

I'll post a picture so you can see. I shot this in manual, f/2.8 at 70mm on a tripod with around 160 shutter speed. I'll post a before and after grade.

Before: http://imgur.com/a/H3bPw

After: http://imgur.com/JjxF8ZD

Do you think this is an operator, lens, or camera problem?

Also please do critique my grade, I'm relatively new to all this.

Full article here: http://www.newsshooter.com/2016/01/27/real-anamorphic-for-less-the-rectilux-3ff-w-single-focus-adapter-reviewed/

Selling a monitor in great condition. Used it exclusively with my Blackmagic Pocket. Works fine. Reason for selling is I'm not shooting enough these days and don't see the point of it lying around. Great monitor on a budget. Comes with original box and cables. Accepts LP-e6 battery. Features Histogram, False Color, Focus peaking, Frame Guides and audio meters. Asking $85 shipped in the US. Paypal preferred to confirmed address.

Here are some pics: Album [url]http://imgur.com/a/J0gWt[/url]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/wlLvLZ0.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/WczaLml.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/vyLYoKQ.jpg[/img]

I'm hoping to make props for a film with it. But a first job, here's a bracket for a 19" rack mount monitor that I use for focus confirmation on:

It was designed in Cheetah3D for which you can treat each unit as 1mm, which helps to create very accurate sizing etc.

For product specification, pricing, availability and business matters please visit my web site below as a matter of courtesy to our host.

http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/

The vintage look digitally remastered...

I have a vimeo channel set up for the tests here:

https://vimeo.com/channels/rectilux (passwords are on the web site)

I also have a flickr account set up to view stills, which is the best way to evaluate sharpness etc

http://www.flickr.com/photos/125986580@N05/sets/72157646313357302/

I will shortly have a blog up and running, but you are very welcome to discuss these breakthough products here.

http://transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/3ffpic09.png

Very lightly used with zero cosmetic blemishes. Use the rail mount to attach a Follow Focus, attach a handle or rails for shoulder handheld work.

$120 + shipping

Located in South Korea

This is weird. I fired up my GH2 today after not using it for a few months. Freshly charged battery.

I don't remember having changed any settings, and I'm using my same C2 custom preset as always. For whatever reason, I cannot get the camera to let me refocus with the half-press shutter technique when I'm filming. It just doesn't work. If I hunt around with my finger I eventually end up pressing too hard and the camera stops filming.

It's set to AF-s, with Shutter AF ON, and Half-press release OFF. (Maybe these are wrong?) I tried on both the 20mm pancake and the 14-42 kit lens.

Anybody else run into this? Any idea what it might be?

UPDATE! OK, I just messed around some more and found something even weirder! If I slightly move the camera body while half-pressing, then the autofocus works on half press. But if I hold the camera still (like on my monopod) it just won't refocus. I don't recall ever having this problem before. Sometimes the AF would hunt a bit when I would half-press refocus during filming, but it was at least responsive even when I held the camera still.

Thanks in advance!

Lori

I am throwing in an assortment of vintage lenses along with their m4/3 lens adapters! The highly sought after Minolta MD Rokkor-X 24mm f2.8 AND the Minolta MD Rokkor - X 45mm F2 Konica Hexanon AR 28mm f3.5 Brand New in Box New Old Stock never used Kalimar 28mm f2.8! Konica Hexanon AR 50mm f1.4 Konica Hexanon 57mm f1.8 (needs work) Konica Zoom Hexanon 65-135mm f4 (needs cleaning).

I also have a spare Chinar 28mm f2.8 I'll throw in as well if you need more than one 28mm or need an extra 28mm prime for a second camera. This is a ton of glass all in very good shape. Im only asking for $350 for all of the above and not really interested in selling just one lens for 50 bucks. I really need to clean out my camera bag and raise some cash to get another GH2. Anyone have a GH2 and willing to trade for all the above...that would be nice too!

Cheers, C

I am selling my SLR Magic 'official' FF Gear.

Including delivery $25 USD.

As new only been used on 2 shoots.

Thanks,

please email me directly; stuart.howe@gmail.com

Also I'd love some input from others on colours and noise ... This was shot using a cinelike D mode with everything set to 0 and edited in Prem Pro 2014 , If memory serves I was on 800 ASA which is high but I expected better results for the noise ... The "black" bars are not the same black as the black surrounding them on my monitor... I output the clip using the factory preset for Vimeo which presumably is RGB as opposed to 709, so surely the black bars should match the black on my screen?? (the bars are a shade lighter)

Aside from the focus issue I'd be very grateful for comments / advice / guidance on noise especially in the blacks which are always a bit crappy ..

Thanks

Alan

pdf download http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/HOW%20SINGLE%20FOCUS%20ANAMORPHIC%20ATTACHMENTS%20WORK.pdf

We are pleased to announce that we have teamed up with Shapeways who will produce custom accessories based on our designs for our complete range of Rectilux CinemaScope Follow Focus Adapters and Lenses. More about these exciting products can be found at the website

http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/cinemascope.html