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RJ Lens Turbo m43 adapters
  • 782 Replies sorted by
  • Vitaliy_KiselevVitaliy_Kiselev

    It doesn't fit too tight, there is al little play

    Adapter or lens on the adapter has some play?

    You can search here for solution for adapters (quite old topic, but good one).

  • snvidsnvid

    The play was my bad, no play anymore. I still don't understand why I have to lock the lever/pin on the lens, then attach to the adapter and then switch to lock on the adapter. I haven't read any comments or experiences about that here. And the FD Kenlock lens is even stranger: I have to keep the switch to open in order to work, but it only works from wide open (2.8) untill 5.6 max.
    If this is not the proper place for this question I will delete it.

    @vitaliy_Kiselev do you mean search this topic or am I missing a link?

  • Vitaliy_KiselevVitaliy_Kiselev

    @snvid

    Thing is, you talk about Canon FD lenses and they are different and slightly weird.

    Type "adapter play" and you'll get best results on top.

    Like http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/52/how-to-fix-lens-to-adapter-looseness/p1

  • snvidsnvid

    Thanks, will do!

  • brianc1959brianc1959

    "What is the lens you used? As thing called blue dot is actually happening due to reflections and is dependent on the lens used. It was a Nikon 35mm AI at the time."

    Central hotspots with focal reducers almost always involve a reflection from the sensor followed by a reflection from one of the lens surfaces within the reducer. The attached master lens plays a role only in that it determines the exit pupil location, which can make a big difference in hotspot definition and brightess. Explanations involving the AR coating quality of the master lens are very doubtful. The RJ reducer in particular has a well-documented issue with exit pupil distance around 109mm, which results in a very sharply focused blue-green ghost image. As the exit pupil distance is reduced the ghost image becomes less defined, but more intense blue in color. Note that the exit pupil is the image of the aperture stop as seen from the rear of the lens, and is completely unrelated to focal length.

  • johnny001johnny001

    Hi guys i have black magic pocket and set of yashica ml lenses Metabone is to expensive for me and i heard about RJ Lens Turbo Booster do they make it for yashica ml lenses i believe its its C/Y mount and where can i buy one cant find it any where and is ti as good as metabone

    Thanks guys

  • joshuaakajoshuaaka

    Hey guys, first post here, but I followed the discussion for quite a while last year. Basically I'm trying to figure out if the blue dot issue should deter me from getting the RJ.

    I've seen all sorts of claims around, that is an RJ issue, that is a individual lens issue, that it happens when you stop down, that it happens all the time, etc. Has anyone anywhere actually systematically documented when exactly the blue dot happens?

    Also see some people talking about a second version of the adapter? Is that an RJ version or some other brand?

    Looking to get a Nikon F >>>> m43 one.

  • ScotScot

    Finally got my adapter and so far looks good. I did find something I have not seen discussed much.

    1. Infinity focus way off my olympus 35 to 70 hits infinity at about the 8 foot mark is this normal? I saw a fix mentioned is there a video out there showing the procedure?
    2. My Olympus 35 to 70 was parafocal now it is way off anyway to fix? Same as above? Video?
  • Vitaliy_KiselevVitaliy_Kiselev

    @Scot

    Yep, look at the early posts. You'll need slightly adjust optical group in adapter.

  • ScotScot

    @vitaly Thanks I will hunt it down guess my quick scan thru 27 pages was to quick :)

  • joetheprojoethepro

    @Scot In case you cant find it, the quick answer is there is a little set screw that holds the glass tight in the adapter. Loosen this, and then carefully physically screw or unscrew the glass element to move it. It doenst take much to have a effect on infinity focus. Just turn, test, turn some more, test...

  • soulkeepersoulkeeper

    Trying to decide which mount of sigma 18-35/1.8 to buy for my gh4...both mounts of rj speedbooster works well with this lens on gh4 (except the fact that you cannot control aperture with the canon mount version) Thanks!

  • SpencerSpencer

    Hey guys, has anyone here had experience with both the latest RJ and Zhongyi? I have the zhongyi from b&h with an ef 28 1.8 and rokinon 50 1.4. It seems to work pretty nicely, but I have nothing to compare it to and no panasonic lenses for my gh4. From what I heard, the ef version of the zhongyi came out at the release of the 2nd version of other mounts, making them the same optics (don't quote me). Rj has a listing of their adapter with a gold accent ring and says that it has a new optical design. Not quite sure when their "new design" was released but I'm really curious to see how these compare.

  • snvidsnvid

    Are there any new RJ owners here? I read somewhere that the blue dot issue is gone with the latest version. I bought mine in Februari but it still has a blue dot (more like a glow). So I probably don't have the improved version.. :(

  • hilburgerhilburger

    Dear Vitaly,

    I just ordered an X-M1 and would like to know if the RJ lens Turbo is also available for XF mount, to mount e.g. M42, Minolta MD or vintage Nikon lenses on this cam?

    Thank you and best regards, Thomas

  • Vitaliy_KiselevVitaliy_Kiselev

    @hilburger

    Yep. All of that you mentioned.

  • ScotScot

    @snvid I don't believe the issue is totally gone but it only shows up for me when I point it directly at the sun and have it set for high fstops. So try not to point it at the sun and keep your fstops down and I really don't think it is to much of an issue. You can even think of it as a look like anamorphic flares sometimes you just have to go with it.

  • nomadnomad

    I can confirm that for my Minolta SR model which arrived about 10 days ago.

  • hilburgerhilburger

    @vitaliy Awesome, so it's about time to choose the first one :)

  • virgilrvirgilr

    @vitaly

    Will the pka version work with older pk mount lenses? If one puts the aperture lever in the 'full open' position will the aperture ring setting be in effect?

    Thanks!

  • Vitaliy_KiselevVitaliy_Kiselev

    Will the pka version work with older pk mount lenses? If one puts the aperture lever in the 'full open' position will the aperture ring setting be in effect?

    Of course.

    For any modern lens where body is able to control aperture - adjustment will work.

  • merciermercier

    It would be helpfull if I knew the dimensions (diameter) of this tripod mount ring collar.

  • Vitaliy_KiselevVitaliy_Kiselev

    @mercier

    See PM.

  • d3strategiesd3strategies

    I just purchased the RJ Lens Turbo through personal-view.com deals (thanks @Vitaliy_Kiselev). I've only played with it for a bit but so far so good. I had recently purchased a cheap Pixco dumb adapter so I could mount my Nikon lenses on a G6 and noticed that the mechanism that controls the aperture would not allow me to fully open the aperture. The pin simply does not line up with the aperture control on the lens. The Lens Turbo, however, works perfectly in this regard.

    @snvid I assume I have the latest version since I just received it May 4. Looking through the viewfinder or at the screen and pointing the camera directly at a light source, the dot is definitely there. It's color, size and intensity changes depending on the lens and the f/stop used. I've seen variations from a strong green dot to a bluish or even multi-colored flare. But again, this was pointing directly at a light indoors so I'm not sure how much of an issue this will be in real world shooting or how an actual recording will compare to what I'm seeing in the viewfinder.

  • snvidsnvid

    @d3strategies thanks for your reply!

    The thing I don't understand is why there is this blue (or green or purple) dot with one lens and not with the other. I see the dot with my fd 28mm 2.8 lens, even indoor and far from a direct lightsource. And with my fd 50mm 1.8 there's no dot at all. So somehow this has not only to do with the adapter but also the glass of the lens? I'm trying to understand this, can someone explain this? If I buy another 28mm will there alsobe this same problem?

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