I haven’t been able to post much this weekend. However, I have been doing a ton of testing. Here are some resolution chart screen captures for the GH3, GH2, and LX7.

I have only included a few of the samples in this post. Honestly, some of them are just so close to others that it really isn’t necessary to post all of them here. For those of you who want to see all of them I have a link below that will allow you to download all of them at once in a .zip file. I will post the original video files to a downloadable Vimeo Account later today.

First off the GH2 and GH3 are very close in resolution and I haven’t been able to detect moire in either of them. They both can exhibit very slight aliasing but only with test charts and not in real world situations.

Whatever moire we saw in pre-production models is not existent in my NTSC GH3.

I included the GH2 1080p @ 24 FPS(Mildly hacked) image here because increasing the bit rate does nothing for resolution of a static image like this. I also included the 1080p @ 60 FPS, 1080p @ 24 FPS All I, 1080p @ 24 FPS regular, 1080i and 720p @ 60 FPS AVC-HD images here. In addition I have charts from -5 sharpness through +5 for the GH3. However, you have to download the .zip file to see those.

All of the GH3’s 1080p settings are very similar except for the ones that are derived from 1080i(ie: 1080i/60 and 1080p @ 30 FPS). The 1080i derived ones show much more aliasing.

Take a look at the GH3 1080p @ 24 FPS AVC-HD and compare it to the 1080p @ 24 FPS all I. The files are almost identical. Again for static scenes the bit rate does not matter and it won’t affect resolution.

I personally like the 1080p @ 60 FPS mode the best. It is absolutely wonderful to have the flexibility to record 1080p @ 60 FPS and play real time or switch to slow motion without having to make that decision beforehand.

I have settled on +2 sharpness for my liking. I am sure yours will vary from that depending on how much you want to edit it. It appears that -2 or -3 sharpness is closest to an unsharpened RAW image. Therefore, shooting with a -5 sharpness and applying in post might not actually be beneficial.

It was too much trouble to post all of those images here so you have to download the zip file if you want to see the sharpness settings. All of the test images are shot with Standard Color mode 0 Contrast, 0 Color, lowest Noise Reduction at ISO 200, with the 35-100mm lens @ 35mm F3.2.

What I found most interesting is how the LX7 did. Don’t get me wrong it isn’t even close to the GH2 or the GH3. However, this is a $300 camera (When I bought it) and it shoots VERY GOOD 1080p @ 60 FPS video. The 720p @ 120 FPS is not good because of severe aliasing. However, it is much better than the 720p @ 120 FPS of my GoPro 3 Black.

I've used the intervemoleter with the 5D to do time lapses - is it the same with the GH2?

This is topic about all real or imaginary issues with real GH3 or imaginary models of GH3 (inside the minds of our members).

Also check

Very big first series - http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/4592/official-panasonic-gh3-topic/p1

http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/4657/official-gh3-deficiencies-and-whines-topic

Short Specifications

• Effective Megapixels - 16.05 Megapixels (17.20 total)
• Live MOS/17.3 x 13.0 mm (in 4:3 aspect ratio), not multi aspect
• 200 - 12800 ISO
• 3.0" 640k OLED Monitor with static touch control
• 1.74Mp OLED EVF
• Video - AVCHD 2.0 1080p50 (PAL), 1080p60 (NTSC), 1080p24 (with slow and fast variations, like 12fps and 50fps).
• Three containers (AVCHD, MOV and MP4) and large bitrate modes, bot intraframe and interframe.
• Shutter Speeds - 60-1/4000
• Flash modes - Auto, Auto/Red-eye Reduction (when iA, iA+), Forced On, Forced On/Red-eye Reduction, Slow Sync., Slow Sync./Red-eye Reduction
• Battery - Li-ion Battery Pack (7.2V, 1860mAh), old or new?
• Continuous Shooting Speed - 6 fps
• Weather Proof
• WB - Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Incandescent, Flash, White Set 1, 2, Color temperature setting
• SD, SDHC, SDXC cards compatible
• Dimensions - 132.9 x 93.4 x 82.0mm / 5.23 x 3.68 x 3.23 in
• USB 2.0
• Weight - 550g
• Price - $1299 (body only!)

Available at:

• http://www.amazon.com/DMC-GH3KBODY-16-05-Camera-3-Inch-OLED-Body/dp/B009B0WREM

Check other topic below for other countries and other US options:

http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/4641/gh3-preordering-and-availability-topic

http://www.personal-view.com/photokina/coverage/gh3 - all info about GH3 from Photokina and other sources

Watch the video in 1080p to see what I mean, anyone else get this? I'm wondering if it's a sensor problem, I'm using Sedna AQ1 patch.

I have a 20mm f/1.7 pancake lens; a 14-42mm f/3.5 kit lens and a 14-42mm Vario X f/3.5 lens. I've been recording in AVCHDp, using the following settings: MANUAL mode High Bit Rate Standard, with all other settings at +/-0 I.Dynamic & I.R (both @Standard) Continuous AF Auto White Balance f/11 Speed: 25

I've steered away from using the Pancake lens, because its focal length is fixed. So, I've been pretty pleased with results using the Vario X 14-42 lens. To date, my videos are "pretty good", but not great

If a change in my Settings don't improve my results, I would consider getting another lens. Ive been looking at the Panasonic Leica D Vario-Elmar 14-50mm, F3.8-5.6 which was an expensive kit lens with the Pana 4/3rds L10.

If I can get this video concern straightened out, I may go for a moderate hack at a later date.

Many thanks for your help.

Also, how do the hacks relate to this? Does the hack only work for recording to the SD card?

However, last night, during intermission, I found that the battery had run out before I could stop the camera manually. I replaced the battery for the second half of the show. At the end, I found that the camera had switched off on its own, despite having power and memory to spare.

Today, I find that some of the video files are missing from the card. They're numbered 00000, 00001, 00003, 00004, and 00006. Can't find 00002 or 00005 anywhere.

Now, this hasn't happened to me before. My first suspicion is that the battery running out caused the loss of 00002, since 00003 begins after the intermission. Can't understand why 00005 vanished, 00006 just ends abruptly.

Are there any explanations for this, and ways to prevent it from happening again?

My videos have a lot of a movement away and towards the camera. I shoot review videos and have to bring the product close up and set it back down again. Trouble is, the camera keeps focusing on a small bit of the video instead of the whole scope (Like my old camcorder does). This results in the video constantly focusing/refocusing whenever I move my hands and it looks terrible. Sometimes it doesn't focus at all! :(

Is there any way to configure the autofocus to perform better? Any settings in the GH2 or techniques?

Thank you for reading

Accordingly to the last response I got from V. Kiselev in this forum was that it hasn't been fixed. Then, accurate focus is the biggest issue I have been encountering with the GH2, specially for run and gun type of shooting. I'm hoping that the GH3 doesn't have this issue.

Recently i've purchased a Lumix GF2, unfortunately it seems to have a serious glitch with CCD (Live MOS) or Compression engine.

If you see the attached image you would notice a RAW+JPG photo. JPG shows the problem with compression engine, although RAW file shows no problem at ALL! I would not care at all if the problem didn't go to VIDEO mode... but that's not the case, as it shows the same glitch.

I've found some information regarding "similar" problem on CANON A70

http://www.imsolidstate.com/archives/915

As canon a70, the problem also shows on LCD screen, not as bad by any measure, but somehow also percievable. I have searched some info regarding the hardware and i've found some steps on this link

http://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials/panasonic-lumix-gf1-ir

CCD seems to go through 4 ribbons (2 upperside, 2 downside) which all of them seem to be ok. So I'm stuck!

My last hope would be some debugging advice from this board!

Any lead would be really appreciated!

I've heard of earlier GH2's made in Japan, but wanted to confirm and see where everyone's GH2's were made and when they bought it.

Thanks!

What mode should I record on to get footage as slow as the GH2 can produce? 'Manual Movie Mode?' 'Variable Movie Mode?

http://nh.craigslist.org/pho/3352394025.html pamela

my projects are displayed on 60 inch+ lcd panels and digital projectors. i've used, extensive in the past, a borrowed gh2 and have been impressed with the hacks over the stock firmware. considerations: - i don't plan to use in-camera audio recording, - DR isn't as important as image sharpness and pixel structure, - i have enjoyed using the high bit rate hacks in the past, particularly the v9b and i do a fair amount of grading in post

also, any idea how the 100mbps+ hacks impact the life of the camera? i recall reading something by a panasonic engineer who thought the hack "overload" would diminish the lifecycle. any real world examples of this?

thanks for the help.