I've been playing around with Vibrant profile and it seems it has a lot more contrast then Smooth and Nostalgic.

What do you guys think?

Same for raw photos on cam, although when imported into lightroom it autocorrects and the image looks great. How do I get a neutral flat video profile like the GH2 on the GH3? What setting is everyone using? Ended up reaching for the GH2 to shoot instead today.

Tempted to leave the cam on standard portrait mode with contrast dialed down only as saturation seems to be the main cause of this plasticy look. Whats everyones thoughts on this?

thanks

I'm Itching to use my GH2 (as I've been in revising all morning :( ) and work on some colour grading with davinci. Although it is raining quite heavily, that's good as I want to film the water droplets but I'd be interested to know if anyone has had any problems with the camera getting wet/damp and whether I should take precautions other than an umbrella?

I'll be using old manual glass if that makes any difference Zenitar/Nikon

Also if anyone in NW London has a monitor I could borrow in three weeks that'd be great ;)

Thanks :) Max.

Without putting too much into grading/color correcting the videos the videos to match, would it be better to just go with a second GH2 and shoot everything twice, or just get two GH1s?

Also, if I went with the dual GH1 setup what hack would best match the GH2 Flowmotion 2.02 IQ?

I am getting my GH3 sometime this week. I was wondering, having never used a GH3 before, what settings is everyone using to get the most dynamic-range/flattest picture/curve from their GH3 when shooting video?

Would love some help! :)

Thanks :)

Here's link to my footage. You'll see the issue more clearly on the right side of the image.

Located in Sweden, can post it world wide (postage: 35 euro) Payments via PayPal only.

I thought the videos were good in the past. However, the lack of image stabilization, accurate Continuous Auto Focus, and a good wide aperture zoom lens were always mentioned as limitations with my videos.

Finally with the GH3 I think we are over that hurdle. The video below was shot entirely hand held(No tripod or monopod at all) by 1 person in continuous Auto Focus mode with the 35-100mm F2.8 lens. I also only used one battery and still had some juice left after more than 4 hours of filming.

I would say that the focus was spot on for pretty much every clip. Even the focus pull at the beginning from the guy’s Ipad to his son climbing worked perfectly. That was a one take shot. If I didn’t get it right I couldn’t ask the guy and the climber to go back and do it again.

I simply slid my finger from the Ipad to the climber on the camera’s LCD screen. I think it gave the video a very nice effect.

I had other lenses with me like the 25mm F1.4 and the 14mm F2.5. However, I never felt like I needed them. At F2.8 I was almost never above ISO 3200 even with the darker lighting they used for this round.

I think the IS was terrific in the 35-100mm lens as well. Yes I would rather have had the OMD’s 5 axis stabilization. However, I think this is the next best thing. Try holding a camera up for 4 hours straight with a 200mm 35mm equivalent focal length and see how shaky it is without good IS. I also like to take images while I record video and instantly upload them to the web so that spectators can follow along with the action with real-time pictures. With the GH3 I put it in the real time wireless upload mode and shot at 1080p @ 60 FPS in the stills mode. That way I could take stills during video and instantly upload them.

The only issue I had with that is that every time you press the shutter button to take a still it will initiate a focus adjustment. That actually made the focus go off more times than not. After noticing this I just decided to save images directly from the videos in playback mode(Press pause during video playback and then save an image). The camera will upload those images in real time as well.

I have tested the quality of images recorded during video recording and images saved during playback and they are indistinguishable in my opinion.

I also mount my GoPro 3 Black on top of the GH3 and shoot simultaneous wide angle 720p @ 120 FPS video. However, I scrapped all of the GoPro footage because it simply was not up to the caliber of the GH3 video. It is great for super slow motion but the 120 FPS mode indoors produces so much noise that it would not mesh well with the excellent video from the GH3.

I also was impressed with how well the youtube encoding turned out. I normally post to Vimeo as well because it is better for compression. However, in this case I thought the 1080p youtube encode looked great.

I didn’t alter the video at all. I did not do any color grading or post processing on it. I shot in scenery mode with -2 Contrast, +2 sharpness, Zero Color, and -5 Noise Reduction and simply pieced the videos together with a cheap($50) program called AVS Video Editor.

It was really nice to be able to produce the video with the footage as it was shot in camera and still get what I thought was a decent result.

There were plenty of other professional film crews there with much more sophisticated equipment. The little 11 year old girl in the last clip is probably the 2nd best female climber in the country(At 12 years old) and she has a film crew that follows her around everywhere she goes. I wonder how much better their footage looks?

So what do you think? Is the GH3 finally the camera that would make you put down the traditional video camera if you shoot both stills and video?

I really need your help. I am using a GH2 in a studio with lots of white light, I capture with a white background, I capture directly to a PC using a MXO2 so I am using the HDMI Output.

Is there a patch to make the HDMI output better becuase I am capturing and I am getting noise.......

Please help. Thank you

I just got my GH3 today, and of course the first thing I had to do was this test. I threw the GH1 in there out of curiosity since I had one lying around. It looks like the GH series hasn't had much progress in the highlights, but the shadow detail has gotten much better. The GH1 and GH2 were hacked while the GH3 was using the stock 50mbps IPB setting. I chose this over the Intra because of reports that it held up better due to a more efficient compression algorithm (I don't know though since I've only had the camera for a day).

I used the cameras' spot meters on the big square gray patch (which is supposedly 18% gray), but I think the GH1 was a little hotter than the other two cameras when correctly exposed. Base ISO was used on all three cameras to achieve maximum DR. In post, I raised or lowered each image by one stop increments with Colorista II to compensate for the increased or lowered exposure levels. Hope someone finds this as useful as I have!

I've been having great fun using my GH2 with both a nikon 50mm f1.8 and Zenitar 50mm f1.7 (got it from a charity shop for £5). However I'm picking up an unpleasant amount of video noise and I'd be interested in which setting be it physical or on camera that has the biggest effect on the noise so I can target that aspect to reduce it the most.

.: I'm using the lenses at either f1.7 orf1.8 but the results are much the same as one would expect.

.: The camera is set at ISO 320

.: I'm using a cheapo video light 1m to the left of the camera (This is as bright as possible as I don't want to distract the musician or audience too much)

.: The lighting of the actual room is fairly bright (A well lit coffee shop)

.: The camera is a GH2 with Cake 2.2 66Mbps Hack

.: Shutter speed is 25 and I'm filming at 1080/24p

And here is a screenshot of a typical shoot at one of the music nights, please let me know if a video clip would be more useful and I will cut some out and upload it.

Thanks for any help, Max.

I was being stupid and tried to remove the SD card that got stuck in the card slot of the 3 year old GH1 by a little force and a pin. The camera is now dead and the Panny service center told that the main board has been damaged and need replacement. It will cost in excess of $350, but parts are not available either. There is no way I am going spend that much on a GH1 now. So I am in need of a camera and need it before 10th March before I go on vacation.

GH1 was my first serious camera and it was Vitaliy's hack that kindled this passion. I have the following lenses now:

Lumix 14-140mm Lumix 20mm Samyang 85mm MF (Nikon) Nikon 50 mm 1.8 MF Vivitar 55mm 2.8 Macro MF (Nikon)

I am a casual shooter and shoots mainly family, nature etc., especially while on holidays. I was sold out by the GH1 videos and I have almost used the camera 80% for videos. Now that is not to say I don't use it for stills. Well, stills are not so much fun with the GH1 (peace, in a more capable hands they sure can be). Of the lenses I use, I almost always use 14-140 for video and by virtue of being having AF and myself being lazy, use it for stills as well. This a not a very ideal solution. I had always wanted a quality lens that can can do AF, video etc. day/night. The MF lenses while excellent, had me working more and I always found myself missing the fun while in the middle of changing lens, adapter and doing manual focus etc.. All this combined made sure the GH1 was mainly a video camera. I often wondered changing format and going for a Nikon or Canon for stills and have some AF lenses for them. The bulk and costs kept me at bay. Where I live the m4/3 is almost unheard of. Even the Panasonic service engineer had not heard of the GH1 when I spoke to him. So Panasonic lenses may be of little resale value here. So that was another factor in looking at m4/3 solution as a replacement camera.

Having been an avid follower of these forums, I took a break for almost an year as I was trying to learn other things like Adobe CS6 etc. Now the sudden demise of GH1 made me search and there was this GH3 with almost universal praise. I hoped the GH3 would solve my problems with the still photography if were to mate it with a good AF lens like the 12-35 or 35-100 from Panny. In a moment of excitement I back-ordered a GH3 body+ battery + 2 year B&H SquareTrade warranty for about $1550. The lenses have to wait for now. However now there is a possibility that the camera may not be delivered by 10th March deadline...

It is then that I read about the Olympus OMD EM-5. I had totally missed the noise around this one. The IBIS and image quality seemed quite a match for the MF lenses that I had (was planning on a Samyang 35mm cine lens, but now the budget is gone). Video seem inferior to Gh3. I also feel it may not be comfortable to hold the body with big lenses sans the grip. The camera is available right now and cheaper and...I could not make up my mind.

So I am now looking at options as an after thought..I think I can change my order with the B&H.. I would appreciate suggestions what would be a best camera GH3, OMD EM-5 or any other. Any suggestions welcome.. Thanks in advance

Anyone get the GH3 to connect to your PC for WIFI photo transfer? Anyone get a Mac to work?

looks like ill be using a run and gun style with target in front of me like the sound of that ,

do i try and get a filmic look with gh3 or camcorder look ?

and what are all these videos of gh3 with differing variables -5-5-5-5 for example ,can some one explain please

I currently have a UK PAL Sony Nex 5N and am happily using it to shoot away at its optimum settings at 25p 1080p. I now have purchased a GH2 in the UK and am aware that I can hack the GH2 and get 25p as well as 24p but with the 25P HBR Option on all hacks I can only see a 1080i option and not a 25p 1080p option?

Could someone please explain to me why this is?..and maybe more importantly does this matter?..will I still get great results using the interlaced 1080i and/or is therr a reason why the GH2 and any of its hacks dont offer 25p 1080p?

I have searched this forum and googled the answer and have seen topics about this but no real definiative answer, if anyone could advise it would be appreciated. Ideally I just want to be able to shoot at 25p in the UK but still be able to get the best resoultion settings which I have always believed to be 1080p?

thanks in advance

Lee

I bought a GH3 (60p) from Amazon USA while in the US two weeks ago and brought it with me. I was very happy (i preordered early) and never saw THIS comming:

Now I get a shipping confirmation for the BMC from Adorama. My credit card stretched to the limit. In order to pay for the BMC, I have to sell my new GH3 (body only).

If anybody is interested in a 60p GH3 in Europe, let me know. I live in Berlin, but ship worldwide (for acutal shipping costs).

My first post - I am absolutely new to all things Panasonic, and I'm making the jump over to Panasonic DSLR from Canon DSLR. I have my sights set on purchasing the GH3 in the next few days, and I was wondering if you guys could help me out with two questions I have;

1. Is there a "flat profile" like the Techicolor Cinestyle profile that is available on Canon DSLR cameras? If not, is there a custom profile that you guys use to give your image a flat look which maximises the camera's dynamic-range?

2. I live in Australia and so will be buying the PAL GH3 - the maximum frame-rate possible in 1080P is 50FPS - however, I have been told there is an option that does 60FPS at 1080P on PAL models, but conforms it in a 24P wrapper? Is this correct? If so, does anyone know what bitrate the video is when this option is used?

Thanks in advance to any replies, much appreciated :)

I don't see many people on the forum having hardware issues so i assume all's good with everyone else.

R