Tagged with still - Personal View Talks

Which of these combinations would be better in night photo?

Manu4Vendetta — Wed, 19 Feb 2014 20:08:48 +0000

NEX (5N, 6, 7, A6000, A3000, A5000, etc) with the SEL 35mm f1.8 or Lumix GX7/GM1 with the PanaLeica 25mm f1.4

Although this forum is focused mostly in the video, my question is for still photography, but equally valid for the video. I love make street photo and usually I do night street photos with my NEX-5N accompanied by Sigma 30mm f2.8 and Zuiko 50mm f1.4 with ambient light and I doubt as the new sensor of Panasonic with the PanaLeica lens.

And I would think in this exercise, both cameras at ISO 1,600, 3,200 and 6,400 at the street in the night, both lens at full aperture, the PanaLeica is faster, but the Sony sensor is larger and has theoretically advantage. but the new sensor of Panasonic seems has cut the distance respect to the NEX.

Some of my shots.

Thanks!

Settings apply to stills as well as video?

matt_gh2 — Fri, 07 Dec 2012 15:23:58 +0000

Rookie question: do the settings like Apocalypse Now Boom, Sedna etc. affect/apply to still pictures in addition to video?

Tips for shooting stills on the GH2, in particular with manual lenses

jimtreats — Tue, 24 Jul 2012 20:58:33 +0000

So i've hardly ever shot any stills with my GH2, using it pretty much solely for video up until now. I know that it's actually one of the better m4/3 cameras for stills, and doing a holiday recently with it as my only "proper" camera I did dabble a little.

I'm always shooting my video in 24p mode, which I'm guessing is the reason that any form of still shot whilst shooting video is impossible. A bit of a shame.

I was using my Voigtlander 17.5mm f0.95 and was experiencing quite a few rubbish shots when trying to take them in program mode. I guess it wasn't working out so well having no control over the aperture. In the end i was forced to go for shutter priority and dial in something fast enough to be sharp... 1/40th or faster basically. I believe then i still had problems with auto ISO, and ended up having to manually dial in isos to get a result that looked close to what i wanted.

It seems quite a struggle really. I'm assuming with coded lenses the experience would have gone a lot more smoother?

I have a few wedding shoots coming up in the next few months, and i wonder if i could manage to shoot stills and video all with just the GH2.. if not i'll rely back on my old trusty Nikon D3 for stills, but i just don't look forward to the hassle and weight of that, as well as the GH2!

Anyone got any tips?

LEICA M MONOCHROM

agoltz — Wed, 16 May 2012 10:29:47 +0000

Nice camera, pity no video.

http://leicarumors.com/2012/05/10/leica-m-monochrom-the-future-of-black-and-white-photography.aspx/#more-15088

Idea for a custom M4/3 adapter for video.

Gabel — Thu, 08 Sep 2011 12:49:51 +0000

One of the issues with still lenses is that they are in many ways not well suited for film, but I have some ideas on what to improve them! Most of this comes not from improving the lenses, but the adapter between them. My ideas so far would be an adapter like this:

1. Mounted sideways: This way the focus mark and aperature all end up mounted sideways, like a cine-lens. Makes life for your focus puller easier.

2. Extra tight lock: As we saw in another thread, adapters tend to be a bit loose at times. While there are ways to improve it, I would not mind and extra lock screw.

3. Ability to set flange to focal distance (shimming more or less): This might not work in practice, but this would be to make sure the focus marks are on, but as they might be off on the lens, this might be rendered moot.

And if possible a back that has a bokeh filter holder added, for getting anamorphic bokeh at a wide-angle.

Do you think this would be doable? Because an adapter like this could help a lot for us that use a focus puller and to adapt still lenses for better work for video!

still picture hacks for pany u43 - Possible to use auto-iso in M mode?

Derway — Wed, 09 Nov 2011 03:24:45 +0000

I have 2 main complaints that keep me away from buying a gh2, or g3, or gfn, or gx1. These are 2 standard features in every oly pen, or canon or nikon DSLR! They belong in cameras of this caliber.

For underwater photo, we always use strobe, and either A mode, (to maximize control of DOF and balance ambient and strobe exposure), or full M mode, to control blur and DOF, and balance the 2 exposures.

But with these pana cams, at these price ranges, there is no way to do the obvious. The A mode with flash forced on, is broken, since it allows 1/30 or 1/60 sec SS, which is way too slow, and will blur fish. Hoping that "intelligent ISO" will notice the movement, and do the right thing is absurd.

Is there a hack for specifying what the slowest SS allowed in "A mode, with flash" should be? (And bump the ISO if it is in auto, or just leave the exposure low, if not in auto ISO).

The alternative is to use full M mode, to specify SS and A for control over DOF, blurring, and ambient/strobe exposure balance. But this is so much easier in oly PENs, for example, which allow you to use auto iso in M mode, in 1/3 EV steps.

So, is there a hack for this? To make auto iso in M mode, set the ISO according to the meter reading? This sounds tougher.

Are these hacks possible? And for what cameras?

If you wanted to really beat the OLY/Nikon/Canon crowed, allowing us to use exposure compensation in M mode, to shift the ISO selection accordingly, would be awesome!

Is the firmware fully disassembled at this point? Can we all work on it too?

Thanks!
Don