I'm also wondering how I can prevent this from happening again. I was shooting 4K 10-bit 23.976fps using a Lexar U3 150 mb/s SD card with 128GB of storage (I had used 122gb by the end of the take, and had a few gigs to spare.) I was also using a 3rd party battery by Newmowa, but it had plenty of charge remaining.

Thanks for reading! Any leads at all would be hugely appreciated.

any help are welcome

fred ++

can someone tell me what kind of problem is that , if that is sensor or something else... and in the case you know where I can get the part for repair that would be of help, I love this camera...

Thanks for your time and consideration

Nicolas

Can some one make a guide to take a Chinon Auto MC 50mm f/1.7 apart? And screw it back together again?

My lens look like this now, im stuck here.

I just received my GH3 from Samys and my FN4 button does not work. I'm think it might be a rare case but since I live abroad and it took two weeks to get it from the US it is pretty annoying. I can still go back in the menu by using the touch screen but it is quit inconvenient.

My question: Did anyone ever came across such an issue with any other DSLR? Is it possible to repair it locally (cheap?) I am not a technician but I am guessing it is either the wiring or a lose contact. So I would like to avoid sending it back/or sending it in to Panasonic for repair. Also: If there is no other solution and I have to send it to panasonic, what are the usual repair times? any experience?

Any advise? Thanks in advance!

vaitor

As I know, it is impossible to restore the device without disassembling the memory chips. I need your advices.

1. Which is the chip?
2. How to extract the part of the firmware, which is necessary for programming the chip by the programmer device?

Please do not offer me contact the service center. This is my decision and I recognize my responsibility.

Anyone out there happen to have any dealings with them recently? Or possibly know of another place one could send a lens mount like this to get repaired?

Thanks guys!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Camera-Len-Ring-Repair-Part-for-Panasonic-Lumix-GF3-G2-GF2-GH2-G3-/221123435105?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:3160

I have a BMD HyperDeck Shuttle 2 and it records uncompressed and in the DNxHD (220) codec.

I can import, play and edit the files just fine, but there's a major problem that makes the files useless.

Static scenes are fine except they are flat and require color correction to make them aesthetically acceptable.

The main problem is that the files have horrible interlacing problems... and I'll explain.

First of all, it doesn't matter whether I shoot in FSH, HBR, 24p or don't hit the camera record button at all and just record from the cleaned display... the same problem occurs, so it isn't a camera setting (I've spent 2 days experimenting with different cam settings as well).

When panning I get fine interlacing lines. They are annoying and unacceptable in their own right, but it gets worst. Once encoded (as in for distribution) the problem is accentuated. Huge lines appear and and make the video look horrible... it is unusable.

On close inspection of the files in PP CS6 I can see that the file is filled with ghost images, which I thought were a result of duplicate frames that the GH2 has served to the BMD Shuttle 2.

I've read about certain fixes for this and a the color shift issues, but a) most sound too difficult to be used in a practical workflow and at the end of the day, they may not even work.

So I'm here with hat in hand hoping that a discussion might yield some fruit that can help me, and others that are having the same problem or looking to use a Shuttle with their GH2s.

Update...

I said that extra frames were being added, well I read that recording from the GH2's HDMI port added and deleted frames randomly, and that clouded my judgment and made me lean in that direction, but upon closer inspection (I was going to experiment with manually removing the extra frames) I found that there are no extra frames per-say.

The ghosting I described is at the heart of the problem.

When panning each frame appears to be a combination of 2 frames at different times. So depending on the speed of the pan (and the shutter speed - the higher the SS the closer together is the dual images) you get an interlaced image (half of the lines) at one point in time, and another (the other half of the lines) at a later point in time.

Where they overlap, the image is solid, but on either side you have a "ghost" image which when played back you can see through the image where the missing lines are, thereby giving a notched edge effect.

And I haven't even wrapped my head around how I can fix that yet??

Thanks for your interest and feedback!!

Anthony