Thanks in advance!

Kickstarter page: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1623255426/fps1000-the-low-cost-high-frame-rate-camera

290fps 720p sprinkler footage: https://vimeo.com/user33535663/review/109492168/ff84853146

290fps 720p sprinkler footage with added sharpening: https://vimeo.com/user33535663/review/109518150/7df49dccbf

200fps 1080p flower/water video: https://vimeo.com/user33535663/review/110201175/34ae6f752c

I commented off hand that if you're desperate enough you can get higher bit depth from merging frames together if you have access to 50, 60p etc. Oh, this also works if you downscale a higher resolution to a lower one within a higher bit depth space as well - so for all you people down scaling footage, if you're able to do that in a 16-bit space and save a high bit depth format then you'll have something to gain. I didn't speak for practicality, only that it can be done.

When I wrote my program to count unique colours in very large resolution 16-bit tiff images, I didn't see other software that'd do that. As the array would require tremendous memory. If you want to know the way I managed to do it I had a simpler way to do it which required processing power over memory, and that was to sort the pixels in an array from smallest colour value to highest essentially, that way you could simply not add +1 to the unique colour count if the same colour appeared more than once in a row.

I had other reasons for doing this, it's part of my experiments with image stacking, but I've done it with various image sources, scans, jpegs from shitty cameras with no raw, raw, jpegs from better cameras, snap shots of two frames in video.

Been told it's "cant be done" many times. Because the information from one from to the next isn't the same - well no, that's exactly why it works, even in the worst case scenario of a tripod locked off shot of still life with nothing moving it works.

But if you're recording 50p, blending every 2 frames together just speeds the footage up to 25p, the average of the two frames still contains the same amount of motion blur/movement as recording in 25p at the same shutter angle, though it may be divided into 2 sections over the 1 frame instead of 1 long section of motion.

Generally that shouldn't be an issue as 180 degree is accepted as general purpose good shutter angle which leaves space between the movement/motion blur anyway, and if you wanted none you could shoot 360 degree.

Now to the screenshot - R, G, B bit values, these represent how much of the scale Red will use on it's own (regardless of what green and blue is attached to - the same goes for Green and Blue etc), a value of 6-bits would mean, the image only has 64 differing red values in total. I made this to identify problems with some images.

Unique Colours is the total number of colours, an 8-bit image has a maximum value of 24-bits here, but that would be very hard to achieve, as it would have to have every combination of colour, hue, intensity, saturation in the one image etc from bland to neon, and the image resolution would need to be 16.7 million pixels or over.

The Unique Colour Factor - A 1920x1080p image has 2,073,600 pixels in the frame, a value of 50% would mean it would have 1,036,800 unique colours in the image, this percentage can be used as a factor of colour quality and separation.

The first example is a single frame grab from some A7s (720p 120fps) video I downloaded off the net (I was going to use my GH2, but I left it at work this afternoon), it's placed into Photoshop and converted to 16-bit and saved as a tiff (partly to rule out any conversion to 16-bit as the contributing rise in bit depth counting, and also because the program I wrote only reads 16-bit tiffs at this time of writing).

The second example, is the first 2 frames in 16-bit mode in photoshop, blended with opacity at 50% for the top layer, flattened and saved as a tif.

The fourth is the same but with 4 frames.

As you can see, the more you stack, the more in between values with higher precision than 8-bit arise, about ~9x the unique colours.

It should only be logical, even if the video or two photos is of on a tripod of a still life, 2 pixel values will have variance in them over the two frames, especially since 8-bit has high quantisation error compared to higher bit depths, variable noise, micron image movement etc, so if you have one that's 241 and 240 for example, the in between value cannot be represented in 8-bits.

Unfortunately I'm working tomorrow, but that means I can get my camera back before Monday, so I probably can shoot some footage with the lowest contrast settings and see if I can induce banding in something and post up an actual video sample.

GH3 was too weak on the vie

wfinder and its pictures were missing something (compare to EM-1 or D800) to be pleasing out of the camera or after post processing.

This Saturday, I took advantage of one class I was orginazing for my students in Shanghai (China) to do some shots with the GH4 I was doing high speed shoot workshop (Freezing water with Flash or High Shutter speed) and the GH4 did great.

It is the first camera I am using, for that type of topic, able to take so many jpg+Raw continuous fast shots without filling up its buffer too quickly. Much better than any of my students camera (Olympus EM1, Nikon D800 and D7100, Canon 700D and 70D...).

I used an Olympus 45mm f1.8 for that series of pictures (Manual focus)

From the GH4, I like the lasting Battery (5 times more duration than the on in the EM-1), the comfortable viewfinder (size, sharpness, shape), the peaking assitance for MF and the overall ergonomy of the camera. I sold my EM-1 as I couldn't cop with its weird menu, its poor battery life and one important missing feature: A physical switch to quickly change focus mode. I get it on the GH4 at the exact right position.

The EM-1 still produce more vivd and natural color, but I also like the signature of the GH4. Smoother, but great.

Only one things is still not good enough is the Dynamic Range (or Contrat ratio) of the viewfinder which is too contrasty; highlight are too easilly overexposed in high contrast situation, which is not visually accurate and comfortable to use.

Incredible Camera - Professional Quality - Unbelievable Price

Whether you're a pro, or just starting out, this is a great bargain for a great piece of gear that will give you hours of joy or make you money.

This is my personal camera, which I only used on 2 jobs as camera #2 where I was the camera operator.

This camera has never been in any harsh weather and is always stored on the desk of my home editing room, in the camera case.

This Camera Comes with Hundreds of Dollars Worth of Extras!

I own a production company, but I am a director, so I don't use a camera very much myself, and my company has a lot of high-end gear... so this camera is not used in my business.

Here is a list of everything included, but to get the whole story, watch the video below.

• Panasonic LUMIX DMC-GH2 Black Camera Body with Body Cap
• Panasonic LUMIX 14mm - 42mm Zoom Lens with Lumix Front Lens Cap and an Olympus Rear Lens Cap and Original Lens Shade
• One (1) 4Gb Memory Card
• Four(4) Original Panasonic Batteries with Battery Cases
• One (1) Original Panasonic Battery Charger
• Two (2) Aftermarket Batteries (non-coded - will not show battery level)
• One (1) Aftermarket Battery Charger
• One (1) Original Panasonic DC Coupler (does Not have the Power Adapter, which is sold separately)
• One (1) Aftermarket DC Coupler (does Not have the Power Adapter, which is sold separately)
• The Original USB Cable
• The Original Composite Video/Audio Cable
• The Stylus
• All of the User Manuals (English and other languages)
• All of the Original Paperwork (Warranty card is included but I don't remember if I registered it on-line or not)
• The Original CD ROM
• The Original Box
• A Camera Case

Everything that you need to start shooting as soon as your camera arrives is included.

I take extremely good care of my equipment and I describe it very accurately.

Please, serious inquiries only.

I only sell in the US. I will accept PayPal, Cashiers Check, or Money Order.

I will ship once the money is safely in my account.

Sale Price: $1,550.00

Free Shipping to Personal View Members that purchase it here.

Here is the video:

Thanks In Advance for Your Interest!

UPDATE: lol I always end up finding answers to my problems, well as it turns out, I was testing the high iso feature with a 14-42 X lens and that was causing those lines, I slapped a manual lens with no IS and no electronics and now I see how clean my 3200 setting is, so people watch out with those Panny lenses :-)

I just got my new GH2 and planing to use it to shoot stock video for my site. I'm looking for a hack that will give me the best image quality at 30p 1080. Mos of the clips I shoot are not longer then then 30 seconds and I I will be using the SanDisk Extreme 45MB C10.

If you reply to my post can you please post the direct link to the settings! If you can you can just upload the hack when your reply.

Thank you very much!

I have been playing with various hacks and have a question regarding the High Bit Rate mode (HBR). If I apply a firmware hack, what bit rate does the HBR adhere to? For example, in the Driftwood AQuamotion v2 .ini file, there is the following information:

Video Bitrate 24H=100000000 Video Bitrate 24L=88000000 Video Bitrate FSH/SH=68000000 Video Bitrate FH/H=56000000

But "HBR" isn't in there. Does HBR adopt one of the above bit rates instead? If so, which one exactly?

I'm using a European model GH2 (PAL), I don't know if that should make any difference to my question.

Many thanks.