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FLEXIOM DC Converter for DSLR-s and all stuff requiring specific voltage.
  • Official name for this product will be: FLEXIOM

    Flexible Input Output Manager (or Module) ...

    The official website will be http://flexiom.com (under construction).

    Support: feha[@]flexiom.com

    P-V members will get rebate.

    I have decided to make DIY product for Universal DC converter. This unit will allow use of any power source 3-30v as input and max output current will be 2A. The unit consists of voltage converter that gives you adjustable output for example GH2, GH3 8.4 V or any other equipment that is sensitive and requires exact voltage.

    Consider this unit as a protection "Layer" between your DSLR and any power unit.

    I know there are many ready power solutions already out on the market, but many still struggle and burn/brick their expensive equipment trying different alternative powering sources.

    I decided to take my time and make this DIY product as a test but if there is an interest might get as batch production.

    The unit will cost a $75 USD + postage (P-V members price). More than 65% of the price to buying needed components the rest a small compensation for research, drill and soldering :-)

    For EACH UNIQUE SALE (per member) I will contribute a $10 USD to support P-V !

    Product components :

    • ABS plastic project box

    • Electronics component (The converter)

    • DC IN/OUT 5.5x2.5 mm jacks

    • Digital Voltmeter (RED) with external switch to check IN voltage, OUT voltage and OFF

    Let me know your interest ?

  • 50 Replies sorted by
  • Very interesting. Perhaps you could share the schematics for those of us who like to DIY?

  • @spacewig , sure will make a tutorial one day, these are mainly components that you can buy on eBay. A bit of research and get them together, drill, solder and done ...

  • Ordered two of these, looking forward to finally being able to use my lanparte and GMP power distributors.

  • @feha I'm definitely keen to buy one.

  • I made some 4 of these, 2 already for @belfryman and 1 reserved for @disordinary . I'm not sure will be able to make more unless i find some ready made ABS boxes with ready drilled holes.

    Provided some images below, the switch has ON-OFF-ON three positions that you can check voltage IN and OUT at any time.

    There are two versions: one with integrated DC cable that works directly with genuine DC coupler for GH2/GH3 , unit has been tested with GH3 no problems ...

    Second version is universal and has 5.5x2.5 mm jacks for IN and OUT voltage ... You may use it with your future BM Pocket Cinema :-)

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  • Here is another test, powering GH3 with 5v only (tested with 19v, 16v ,12v etc)

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  • I ordered two of these from @feha. They came today and I am VERY happy. Finally I can use my pinches and V lock battery the day away. Nice to have the ability to view incoming and outgoing voltages. This means anyone who wants an affordable solution can buy one of the fotga pinches Vitaliy puts in the deals and one of these converters and you have a cheap V lock solution for the GH2. At last!

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  • This means anyone who wants an affordable solution can buy one of the fotga pinches Vitaliy puts in the deals and one of these converters and you have a cheap V lock solution for the GH2

    As far as I know Fotga new battery solution will have this build in :-)

  • Ah that's great news for all GH2 owners! Except me of course!

  • This project is not to replace current power plates etc ... You can use this without any power plate but with any battery or power source 3-30v etc ... completely different unit, very flexible protects your GH2/GH3 from accident connections to wrong voltage and pinchies and the good thing will work with any power pinch(es) out there. With or without power plate, lightweight, with proper cable connect to car battery, connect to cheap risky batteries etc. So this unit is a complement and security and does not require a specific battery or power source.

    These was some of arguments ... :-)

    Buying this , you contribute to P-V also :-)

  • I made one of these once. It allowed me to run my old AF100 from a V-Mount battery. I had it set up so the V-Mount battery powered the AF100, my DP6 monitor, and the Hyperdeck Shuttle 2. It was nice having on battery power everything.

  • Ah that's great news for all GH2 owners! Except me of course!

    Who knows their quality of converter, and they already had multiple delays :-)

    So, if you need such thing now just get @feha creation.

  • Also there is a mini version for those who do not require "control freak" (like me) checking voltage ... No digital voltmeter but same functionality and works with GH2/GH3 :-) or any Lumix camera with DC coupler.

    Below works with 19V battery, and same will work with NPF Sony, Car battery, 5V source etc ...

    You can have a battery bank in your back pocket :-)

    This is worth just as a protection box alone :-) This version would cost $55 USD + postage (P-V members price)

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  • I'm preparing a PRO version in aluminum box, there will be 2x output example two GH2/GH3 (8.5v) and 2x 12v + digital voltmeter.

    Both outputs can be adjusted separately 2 by 2 for your needs, so it will work with any camera.

    input will be 2x 3-30v so you can use two batteries in parallel to increase the capacity, or connect two of these boxes for more power splitting ...

    You will be able even to connect directly a v-lock battery plate with proper cable.

    Any suggestions welcome ...

    Price will be about 120 USD + postage ...

  • @feha

    How about make ready to run solution for two Sony batteries? Not V mount, but NP like.

  • @Vitaliy_Kiselev , yes, i just need to find proper flat battery plates for NP batteries :-)

  • +1 for NP version. Just an idea: You could add a goldcap inside the box that keeps the cam running if you change battery quickly.

  • @Meierhans , thank you, any reference to goldcap ? I could add 470 - 1000 microF (50v) but don't know how long it will hold between battery change ...

    Ordered some 1000 microF/50 V ...

    Also 2200 microF / 35v , will test both ...

  • The problem is with NP battery plates. I can't find any affordable and flat, please if you find any let me know ?

    Below is one that i bought "ikan" is flat but expensive at eBay i paid $25 USD ...

    However the converter will work with any external battery plate for NP sony batteries, connecting two of these you will have similar power as V-Lock batteries but at the fraction of price ...

    I found this one: http://leadstarvideo.diytrade.com/sdp/206312/4/pd-1019114/4306118.html

    but min order is 100 pcs ...

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  • Just checked on the Farad vs milliamperehours... Guess you will need more something in the range 25F to make it comfy to change battery while cam is recording and external monitor is running.

  • @Meierhans , thank you, i will test 2200 microF , 25F is toooo big :-)

  • Farad = (Ampere per second) / Volt

    You can do the math. ;-)

    http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=102537.0

  • @Meierhans , i mean physically to big, will not fit in my DC box ...

    However it will have two NP-F plates in parallel connection (OPTIONAL) plus an external input jack. So swapping batteries one by one will eliminate the need for big capacitor. Had an idea about internal small battery but i can not use as it has flexible input 3-30v ...

  • @feha +1 for interest. After watching your video on the 1st solution you built I was thinking to build my own when I get the time. I will watch this thread instead. I like the idea of having a voltage readout on the box too. Cfreak stands for ConvergenceFreak, but, might as well be ControlFreak when it comes to protecting my investments! lol.