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312A, 312AS, 312ASZ Lishuai LED Light
  • Again, old, well known, very good quality light, but we did not have separate topic on it as I see.


    312AS led light (also option to get two lights in the pack)


    Very good and popular light with adjustable color temperature.


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    Available at:

    http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/717/special-deals-lighting-fresnels-evfs-monitors

  • 79 Replies sorted by
  • I love mine too! I bought both the 312 bi-color and the 312 normal and I love both for different reasons, I'm thinking of getting another 2 !!!!
  • what type of batteries being used? It is Sony?
  • Hi, 312 Leds are ON in the same time? or 156 leds are use for 3200K and 156 for 5600K,

    How would you compare these with the z96? the power is equivalent to 3x z96? Do they comes with Batteries?

    thanks
  • These look good. Where would they be shipped from, just so I can tell whether to expect import duties etc.

    I'll presume you can't get localised power adapters, ie. UK plug sockets?

    Also what's the standard price for such things, I'm not familiar with them to see how much of a saving we're talking about.

    Great stuff though Vitaliy, thanks!
  • @Mark_the_Harp thanks. That seller is based in China so would also impose the usual import duties etc. Cheers
  • @Hanza Well, a good point is that he says the light is amazingly bright, so the dual-colour version should be good. I'm very tempted. I also see they make a ring light, which is a nice way of creating really beautiful head-and-shoulders shots.
  • Considering the 312AS Led-light

    One question: How bright is this light in real world situations?

    I don't mean lux-count, I mean e.g. if I want to use it as a filler to light the background of a shot (with a softbox) how big can the area/room be the light is capable covering?

    I have a 1000W 3400° (lightbulb) cine-light - will the led panel be as bright as that?

    Or is it only strong enough to use it on cloesups to light the talents?
  • A 1K bare bulb will be brighter but uglier if you don't control and diffuse it, ie- make it softer. But the same can be said for many LED lights. Most need diffusion and some magenta gel to take out the green which most have. But the technology is getting better all the time. This brand may not have said problems but most do, and no, they won't lift the room with ambient light like your bulb can. They are getting brighter and their colour is getting better but they are still not full spectrum like tungsten bulbs are… i.e. they spike

    LED lighting is the future but we're not there yet.
  • Here's a great talk about the nature of light and lighting from AMPAS. Check out the symposium videos @

    http://www.oscars.org/science-technology/council/projects/ssl/
  • @davhar

    Thanks for the info. The 1k bulb light has a small diffuser on it, but you are right - I will have to soften it a lot more. I can easily use it to light the background of normal living room. I was just wondering in what ballpark the LED-light will play.

    Can anybody who has this LED light give an amproximate comparison to bulb lights? Is it like a 100W, 200W, 500W,.. bulb (with some diffusion)?
  • Hi Vitaliy,

    Do you know how they compare with the Z96 (or W96) in terms of lighting output?

    Thank you for your attention,
  • >Do you know how they compare with the Z96 (or W96) in terms of lighting output?

    My understanding is that 312AS lights are more powerful and light quality is much better, other than this read review in first post.

  • Nice package. Vitaliy, thanks!
  • I assume the power supply works with both the charger and the light itself?

    Would two of these and a reflector be sufficient to start learning and playing with 3 point lighting?

    Cheers
  • >Would two of these and a reflector be sufficient to start learning and playing with 3 point lighting?

    No.
  • >No.

    I think it is wrong answer.
    I'll tell otherwise - it depends :-)
  • >it depends :-) ?

    Come on VK. Those little units don't have enough oomph to do much but CUs, let alone bounce off a reflector. You could just pound one into the reflector for the soft key and use the other as a hair/modelling light on the opposite side. But thats just a two light set up :-)
  • @davhar

    I prefer to ask editman on this.
    He use them on actual shooting, and as I know he already has 3 of them.

    I also suggest coollight article I referenced to understand how LEDs work and how their light power compares to other lights.
  • >I prefer to ask editman on this.

    Looking forward to hearing how they're working out for him. Love to get my hands on some cheap LEDs if they're up to the job. Every LED I've used on set the last couple of years has been in the $1200-$2500 range and we just use them, if the DP allows, as easy fill lights…or monitor glows, space ship panels, etc… But they are definitely becoming better and more popular…and cheaper. We just have to make sure we get the right ones…because my own experience is that there is a lot of bright and shiny crap out there
  • I've got lux and lumens coming out of my ears and I'm still no closer to worker out how these LED lights compare in brightness to a 55W florescent (300W tungsten equivalent).

    lux is lumens per square metre, right? So what does "6580 lux/50cm" mean? 6580 lux at 50cm away? Does lux always need to be qualified with a distance? And if so, how come there's lots of data out there that simply says "320–500 lux : Office lighting" ?
  • >Does lux always need to be qualified with a distance?

    Basically yes, but in a reference point sort of way. The closer your subject is to the light source obviously the hotter the light. It used to be measured in Footcandles which is how much light is one candle reading one foot away from it. That is an "incident" reading; not reflecting back from the subject but falling on it. Now they talk in terms of Lumens per sq.metre, ie-lux. There's 10.764 lux per footcandle. But we don't use "lux' on set, or even footcandles these days. We do walk around the office measuring the light with an incident meter and see where it's too hot or where the actor steps into shadows, etc. But most DPs and gaffers just measure F stop readings with digital meters, cause it's so much easier -there's no calculating- just "give me a two-five here and then a four for the stunt over there", etc.

    So don't get caught up in marketing language that's all about the brightness of the LED, because the quality of the light is far more important than the number of lumens it projects. And the LEDs are not standardized in any way as far as I know so, as a reference point- your lit office is brighter than a full moon overhead - which they say is 1 Lux. How much brighter? 320-500 times
  • @davhar Thanks, but I'm still no closer to knowing what 6580 lux/50cm means! :) If I had to guess I'd say it meant 6580 lux when measured 50cm from source? How would I compare that to an unqualified lux figure - should I assume that the lux without a distance is measured at 1m from source?

    @Vitaliy_Kiselev Do you know what the CRI for these lights is?

    I'm using this setup at the moment: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PhotoSEL-5400K-Studio-Softbox-Lighting-Light-Kit-2x85w-/180679494748?pt=UK_Photography_Lighting_Kits&hash=item2a11564c5c

    I've replaced one of the 85w lights with a 35w to have some variability but the inability to dim these lights is a real problem.

    I'd like a lighting set with a similar amount of output, that I can dim and with a good CRI so I don't have to muck about with gels. Adjustable colour temperature is a bonus but not a must.

    Are these lights what I'm looking for?
  • > Do you know what the CRI for these lights is?

    First, CRI do not define light quality completely.
    Second, I really do not know.

    >I'd like a lighting set with a similar amount of output, that I can dim and with a good CRI so I don't have to muck about with gels. Adjustable colour temperature is a bonus but not a must.

    I suggest you to make special topic about this, ok?
    This is topic about deal for specific light.
    I think that you do not understand completely that you want (and why) and need to spend some time reading and looking at options.