But when shooting I get an effect like I had auto exposure settings. Picture is not the same all the time, it changes aperture value just a little bit. It is quite annoying. Can I set this off somewhere?

Wiki Page - http://www.personal-view.com/photokina/coverage/gh3-deficiencies

Also, I've never purchased a camera from Japan, but I hear the menus are often all in Japanese. Can you not just install the US/EU firmware and get other languages, or does it require a hack?

If I do get the GH3 early, I'll do some comprehensive tests and comparisons with the GH2. I'd like to do a scientific DR test if possible.

GH3 Rumors specifications (with current probability status):

• Wheather sealed, metal body (99%)
• Shutter button located similarly to G5 (99%)
• Focus peaking and zebras (99%)
• 920k or better capacitive touch screen (98%)
• Improved EVF (99%)
• 1080p48/ 1080p50/1080p60 at 28mbps, 50mbps and intraframe 72mbps (99%)
• 1080p120/1080p100 special modes (limited time usage), 720p120/720p100 unlimited (44%)
• WiFi direct with Android and iPhone applications with remote video capture (99%)
• 1/3.5" mic input and headphone output (98%)
• Supplied with new wheather sealed kit (55%)
• And optional battery grip, of course, XLR mic input option (98%)

43rumors version

• 16 Megapixel “Wide dynamic range” CMOS Sensor.
• New Venus 7 engine
• Electronic shutter option
• ISO 100-12.800
• 6fps
• Fastest AF of any interchangeable lens system camera.
• Video Bitrate 50Mbps (72Mbps ALL-I)
• 3.5 inch Mic in
• built-in stereo mic
• Headphones out
• Time Code
• 1740k OLED LVF, Touch Monitor OLED 610k.
• external battery grip
• Wifi with remote control through iOS and Android Applications
• external XLR accessory
• Focus Peaking
• Interval shooting and slow motion. Slow Movie extension (40%, 50%, 80%) Fast 160/ 200 / 300%
• Magnesium alloy body. Body is bigger than the Panasonic GH2.

Having had a very long chat with a Panasonic representative who has just come back from the 2012 internal product range launch in Germany at the start of the month, I think we can safely say that there will be no GH3 (replacement for the GH2) until sometime around October 2012 at the earliest. Taking a sneek peek at the launch schedule for 2012 and up-and-coming products from Pann's consumer division, this bares fruit as the checkboxes for GH2 don't stop until October. Here's the sneek peeks from the schedule. Also note, it seems the GX1 will become the budget camera of choice looking at the full year ahead.

They will also have a MASSIVE opportunity to hit hard into Canon and the rest of the market – I don't see anything too radical announced from their competition – Panny's opportunity is here; they can truly establish m4/3 with a blinding top spec flagship product. If they can sort out HDMI, improved codec for 25p/30p, true 24p/60p, 4:2:2 (could be asking for too much), picture profile editor, and they'll have a winner. This is NOT too tall an order. I think I speak for a lot of us, that we would pay 25% more for such a product. However, its more than likely they'll keep it below the AF video camera spec.

thanks

From the handbook: "0 °C to 40 °C (32 °F to 104 °F)"

I have a shoot Saturday and temperatures are said to reach -20 °C. Batteries of course will only last a 1/3 of rated time, and condensation may become an issue. Any tips on how to deal with this, like getting the camera to temperature gradually?

http://vimeo.com/groups/gh2/forumthread:249248 has this:

"D D 2 months ago I happily used mine last winter when it was worse than -10C, but I doubt the internals ever got down that far. I'd imagine the Panasonic specs relate to continuous core temperature and also have a small margin of tolerance. In the cold, it's often the battery that's first to fail to perform adequately rather than the electronics of the camera, or whatever. Keep your battery warm in a pocket and pop into the camera just for the shot. I've had cameras operate well below their published minimum in this way.

Besides keeping your batteries in a warm pocket, a couple of other good tips for taking pics in the extreme cold ... 1) For at least a couple of hours (the longer the better!) before going out into sub-zero temperatures, put the camera into one of those plastic zipper food bags with a couple of freshly recycled Silica Gel sachets. This removes the internal moisture and reduces the chance of condensation inside the camera/lens. 2) Take the bag and Silica Gel sachets with you. Before popping the camera back inside your jacket to keep it warm between shots, first take out the battery and keep warm in your pocket and put the camera back in the plastic bag. The humidity under your nice warm ski-jacket is really high! 3) Before returning into the warm indoors, remove the battery and memory card and put the camera back into the bag and leave in the bag until it has warmed up. This prevents condensation forming on the outside of the camera. The memory card has very little mass and not too subject to condensation . . . and you probably want to download pics/video without waiting for the camer to warm up - and, likewise get the battery on to recharge."

The GH2 is shown to have around 9 stops of DR, compared with 11 or so for the others.

He's also using his own custom profiles, (except for the GH2) which he called "Flaat." More information on these profiles is available here: http://www.similaar.com/foto/flaat-picture-styles/index.html

I have looked through the search function and no relevant results come up when I browse for this topic, so here's my new thread:

I am interested in astronomy as well as wildlife and videography/sound recording/film making in general.

Does anyone know if I can connect my new Panasonic GH2 video camera to a telescope such as the Celestron SkyProdigy™ 130 Computerized Telescope, for catering stills and videos of the moon and distant wildlife such as deers, birds etc?

I have seen a number of videos where people have used a telescopic lens in conjunction with the GH2 to film the moon and wildlife. But I am interested to know whether or not it is possible to connect a whole telescope to the GH2...

Thanks.

Thank you in advance.

Original MTS file can be downloaded on http://www.mediafire.com/?e772u2w69srha7f

HACK Driftwood´s spanmybitchup lens Panasonic, 14-45mm at 14mm, aprox f16 Settings were: ISO 160 WB interior shutter 1/200 HBR nostalgic video out pal

I know that Nostalgic film mode has best dynamic range (from what I've read), but I also read on EOSHD Guide to GH2 that Black and White Smooth Film mode on GH2 is supposed to have the best DR and smoothest gradation out of all film modes. Should I just shoot Black and White Smooth mode straight in the camera or do use another mode and then do B&W in post? How about the best patch?

Any input is appreciated enormously,

Thank you so much.

Are there any canon owners here who have switched or decided not to switch? What were your reasons for doing so.

I primarily shoot commercials, music videos, and web series destined for web.

Thanks in advance for your time.

thanks for the great read and videos guys.

Examples here (view full screen):

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I also noticed when I get the colors how i like them and hit record the whole camera color changes a little to a green tent to it.

Those are my main problems. also what was your first impressions of the camera if your a nikon or canon that came over to the gh2. or just anyone really. Im going to be looking more into these topics after this post I looked into the color problem but found nothing. and the progresive and interlaced. I know in premiere i can change it to P but is this really shotting a Progressive Just seems strange to me. just never had this problem im just confused. I see all these great videos with nice colors and when seeing mine with its green tint is just a let down.

also if you can suggest the most used patch that has the best quality as in being more reliable and has good quality also

I have a BMD HyperDeck Shuttle 2 and it records uncompressed and in the DNxHD (220) codec.

I can import, play and edit the files just fine, but there's a major problem that makes the files useless.

Static scenes are fine except they are flat and require color correction to make them aesthetically acceptable.

The main problem is that the files have horrible interlacing problems... and I'll explain.

First of all, it doesn't matter whether I shoot in FSH, HBR, 24p or don't hit the camera record button at all and just record from the cleaned display... the same problem occurs, so it isn't a camera setting (I've spent 2 days experimenting with different cam settings as well).

When panning I get fine interlacing lines. They are annoying and unacceptable in their own right, but it gets worst. Once encoded (as in for distribution) the problem is accentuated. Huge lines appear and and make the video look horrible... it is unusable.

On close inspection of the files in PP CS6 I can see that the file is filled with ghost images, which I thought were a result of duplicate frames that the GH2 has served to the BMD Shuttle 2.

I've read about certain fixes for this and a the color shift issues, but a) most sound too difficult to be used in a practical workflow and at the end of the day, they may not even work.

So I'm here with hat in hand hoping that a discussion might yield some fruit that can help me, and others that are having the same problem or looking to use a Shuttle with their GH2s.

Update...

I said that extra frames were being added, well I read that recording from the GH2's HDMI port added and deleted frames randomly, and that clouded my judgment and made me lean in that direction, but upon closer inspection (I was going to experiment with manually removing the extra frames) I found that there are no extra frames per-say.

The ghosting I described is at the heart of the problem.

When panning each frame appears to be a combination of 2 frames at different times. So depending on the speed of the pan (and the shutter speed - the higher the SS the closer together is the dual images) you get an interlaced image (half of the lines) at one point in time, and another (the other half of the lines) at a later point in time.

Where they overlap, the image is solid, but on either side you have a "ghost" image which when played back you can see through the image where the missing lines are, thereby giving a notched edge effect.

And I haven't even wrapped my head around how I can fix that yet??

Thanks for your interest and feedback!!

Anthony

Thanks :)

Loving my GH2. However, in my first use of it I recently conducted a number of interviews for a doc and found to my surprise that occasionally duplicate files were created.

Has anyone had the same happen to them? Anyone know the reason why? Anyone know how to stop it?

I can digital zoom on my 7d fine but not the gh2.

Is there anything i can do?

Thanks

CLUSTER v6 'Nebular' Kit lens 14-42mm f3.5 1/50 iso12800 Smooth -2 on all.
I.Dynamic/I resolution off.

I have a question. For my professional videos with my GH2, so with controlled lightning etc, I of course use the creative video mode and so did I also during my private videos. At one time I needed to take a picture during a video take and found out, that I can not do this in creative video mode. But in A S M P and many other modes, when I film in these modes. Now the chosen video format, SHG, SH (1080i, 720p,) or so stays the same in the other modes. What is different is, that in these modes, Auto ISO jumps in which can mot be overruled.

When I film outside with good light I do not care. Other things like aperture, shutter speed etc ca be set manually in the normal modes ad well.

So my question to the GH2 experts: What are the other differences/advantages From creative video modes to A S M P Modes

Advantage creative video mode: 1. control of the ISO 2. ?

Advantage A S M P modes: 1. pictures can be taken during video filming 2. ?

Thanks already, any answer will be appreciated.

@ Vitaliy, if you ind a thread, where this question fits please shift it there or let me know and I post the question there again.