Also, where to see a list of presently available firmwares for either camera, and how can one decide which one to use? Is there like a "10 best" list someplace? Thanks a bunch, ladies & gents.

I've heard, that GH3 can record in 4K 20 frames per second and memory card capable to store 95 Mb/s. Therefore if we narrow size to 16mm (10.6mm x 6mm) is it possible to record RAW video?

In video mode replace exposure numbers with rotary disc shutter angle: 1/32 = 270° (?) | 1/48 = 180° (add) | 1/50 = 172.8° | 1/60 = 144°; | 1/96 = 90° (add) | 1/120 = 72° (add)

Add Frame Line - The aspect ratio frame  1.85:1 (35mm theatrical), 2.35:1 (Cinemascope)

Hope this is the correct place to post.

I've gotten it in my head that it would be a good use of my Raspberry PI to make it into some sort of WIFI remote control for the GH3, I'd love to have some sort of WIFI rocker focus pull for example.

Over the coming months I'm going to start diving into the detail and seeing how it all works, I'm new to the range of cameras but not to IT and particularity low levelish networking in general where I have a misspent youth and career history to pull on :).

Just wondered if anyone else is working on the same, first steps finding if there is an official Panasonic API or industry standard being for the WIFI camera control used, if not I'll see how far I can get reverse engineering it.

Mark

"The Lumix sensors are also all a bit predisposed to green at the expense of warm reds, yellows and oranges. Energy saving lightbulbs especially don’t help, since these have a green cast and the GH2 exaggerates it.

On any white balance preset (even auto) that you intend to use, customize them so that the notch in the color chart is two steps toward yellow (on the left) and 1 step down toward Magenta. Don’t go any further than this because it will give whites a pink cast. This compensates for the green cast, and warms the auto white balance preset slightly to remove the grey and neutral color tones. This will give you much stronger results indoors, in studios and render sunsets and evening skies in a much more lifelike way with deep scarlets and oranges rather than pathetic yellowy greens!"

If true, as a general question, does this still hold true when using the various custom created settings? Again, if the above is true, do the custom settings take this into account and so one should put use the GH2's default White Balance?

I hope I asked that right.

Thank you

Currently I have an older Nikon DSLR which lacks video, as next month I'm starting a year long film course I have a need for a new camera which does video well (also will be using it for various personal projects too: short films, music videos, web series, etc.. and hopefully even a paying job or two).

It seems to me at first the obvious choice would be the previous model from the GH2 so thus get the GH1 secondhand on eBay, but the GF1 & GF2 also appear to be attractive options?

Made a comparison of what I know so far about GF1/GF2 vs GH1.

Pros:

a) does "comparable" video to the GH1 (I think it is the same? But struggling to find this out for sure)

b) goes for about half the price as the GH1 on eBay, which is a very compelling point for me at the moment (oddly the GF2 & GF1 are both going for about the same price on eBay??)

c) is exactly the same system and brand as the GH series, thus my future acquired knowledge/lenses/accessories will be very easily transferable when I get a GH2 or GH3 (or GH4? haha)

d) smaller bodies, for extra stealth should I wish for it as they're almost nearing compact size

e) the GF1 & GF2 are also hacked (thanks @Vitaliy_Kiselev! I'm amazed by how much you've contributed to this field)

f) the GF2 uses the same spare batteries as the GH2 (although I think the GF2 does not have the same degree of manual control in video as the GF1 has?)

Cons:

a) lacks a view finder

b) lacks an adjustable rear screen

Any extra advice or information about a hacked GH1 vs GF2 vs GF1 would be appreciated, thanks :-)

Zeiss Setup - Contax Zeiss 85mm f/1.4 | $650 - Contax Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 | $370 - Voigtlander 25mm f/0.95 | $1200 - Olympus 12mm f/2.0 | $800 - Tokina AT-X 270 Pro 28-70mm f2.8 | $290 - Total: $3490

Rokinon Cine Lens Setup - Rokinon 85mm T1.5 Cine Lens| $350 - Rokinon 35mm T1.5 Cine Lens | $550 - Rokinon 14mm T3.1 Cine Lens | $450 - Tokina AT-X 270 Pro 28-70mm f2.8 | $290 - Total: $1640

Nikon Setup - Nikon AF 85mm f/1.8 | $460 - Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AI-S | $170 - Nikon 28mm f/2.0 AI-S | $320 or Nikon 24mm f/2.0 AI-S | $400 - Tokina AT-X 270 Pro 28-70mm f2.8 | $290 - Total: $1240/$1320

Canon FD Setup - Canon FD 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C Lens | $250 - Canon FD 50mm 1.4 | $130 - Canon FD 35mm F2 | $250
- Tokina AT-X 270 Pro 28-70mm f2.8 | $290 - Total: $920

I couldn't find any appropriate wide lenses for the Canon FD or Nikon setups.

So possibly the GF5 or GF3 or GX1.

I do not need the viewfinder or hotshoe... GF3 and GX1 are hacked...but GF5 not...

Any ideas when using them 50/50 for photo and video?

Any help welcome!

Regards Michael

Is it a way to hack the GX1 firmware and able a function that would let make tethered shootings ? I know that a lot of people out there are waiting for that kind of stuff and Panasonic just doesn't care about its customers needs…

I want to make the following picturew iwth the GH3:

http://www.daveyjphoto.com/tagged/long-exposure

and here the tutorial:

http://www.daveyj.ca/fireworks

2 problems I have with the GH3 there: When I want to make a picture that starts out of focus, it automatoically focusses what I push the button. I have set the menue from "Focus" to "Release" but no difference. OK, I can search for a target elswhere and then refocus or use manual focus mode, so that is possible.

But the 2nd problem is a hard one: When I do a longe time exposure, for example 3 seconds or also "B" Bulb mode, during the taking of the picture, the live viwe is gone. So how can I refocus then? I have to do it blind, trying before hand where it is is focus like written in the tutorial, but he used a 5D Mark II. So he has a mirror. We don't have one and still have no picture.

Does anybody know, how to keep the picture on the screen while taking the picture? Any assistance would be helpful.

(Possible before December 31st, beause ther I would like to try it :-)

So I guess this is what is called a "Hot Pixel"?

How do I fix this? Thanks.

I haven’t been able to post much this weekend. However, I have been doing a ton of testing. Here are some resolution chart screen captures for the GH3, GH2, and LX7.

I have only included a few of the samples in this post. Honestly, some of them are just so close to others that it really isn’t necessary to post all of them here. For those of you who want to see all of them I have a link below that will allow you to download all of them at once in a .zip file. I will post the original video files to a downloadable Vimeo Account later today.

First off the GH2 and GH3 are very close in resolution and I haven’t been able to detect moire in either of them. They both can exhibit very slight aliasing but only with test charts and not in real world situations.

Whatever moire we saw in pre-production models is not existent in my NTSC GH3.

I included the GH2 1080p @ 24 FPS(Mildly hacked) image here because increasing the bit rate does nothing for resolution of a static image like this. I also included the 1080p @ 60 FPS, 1080p @ 24 FPS All I, 1080p @ 24 FPS regular, 1080i and 720p @ 60 FPS AVC-HD images here. In addition I have charts from -5 sharpness through +5 for the GH3. However, you have to download the .zip file to see those.

All of the GH3’s 1080p settings are very similar except for the ones that are derived from 1080i(ie: 1080i/60 and 1080p @ 30 FPS). The 1080i derived ones show much more aliasing.

Take a look at the GH3 1080p @ 24 FPS AVC-HD and compare it to the 1080p @ 24 FPS all I. The files are almost identical. Again for static scenes the bit rate does not matter and it won’t affect resolution.

I personally like the 1080p @ 60 FPS mode the best. It is absolutely wonderful to have the flexibility to record 1080p @ 60 FPS and play real time or switch to slow motion without having to make that decision beforehand.

I have settled on +2 sharpness for my liking. I am sure yours will vary from that depending on how much you want to edit it. It appears that -2 or -3 sharpness is closest to an unsharpened RAW image. Therefore, shooting with a -5 sharpness and applying in post might not actually be beneficial.

It was too much trouble to post all of those images here so you have to download the zip file if you want to see the sharpness settings. All of the test images are shot with Standard Color mode 0 Contrast, 0 Color, lowest Noise Reduction at ISO 200, with the 35-100mm lens @ 35mm F3.2.

What I found most interesting is how the LX7 did. Don’t get me wrong it isn’t even close to the GH2 or the GH3. However, this is a $300 camera (When I bought it) and it shoots VERY GOOD 1080p @ 60 FPS video. The 720p @ 120 FPS is not good because of severe aliasing. However, it is much better than the 720p @ 120 FPS of my GoPro 3 Black.

I've used the intervemoleter with the 5D to do time lapses - is it the same with the GH2?

This is topic about all real or imaginary issues with real GH3 or imaginary models of GH3 (inside the minds of our members).

Also check

Very big first series - http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/4592/official-panasonic-gh3-topic/p1

http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/4657/official-gh3-deficiencies-and-whines-topic

Short Specifications

• Effective Megapixels - 16.05 Megapixels (17.20 total)
• Live MOS/17.3 x 13.0 mm (in 4:3 aspect ratio), not multi aspect
• 200 - 12800 ISO
• 3.0" 640k OLED Monitor with static touch control
• 1.74Mp OLED EVF
• Video - AVCHD 2.0 1080p50 (PAL), 1080p60 (NTSC), 1080p24 (with slow and fast variations, like 12fps and 50fps).
• Three containers (AVCHD, MOV and MP4) and large bitrate modes, bot intraframe and interframe.
• Shutter Speeds - 60-1/4000
• Flash modes - Auto, Auto/Red-eye Reduction (when iA, iA+), Forced On, Forced On/Red-eye Reduction, Slow Sync., Slow Sync./Red-eye Reduction
• Battery - Li-ion Battery Pack (7.2V, 1860mAh), old or new?
• Continuous Shooting Speed - 6 fps
• Weather Proof
• WB - Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Incandescent, Flash, White Set 1, 2, Color temperature setting
• SD, SDHC, SDXC cards compatible
• Dimensions - 132.9 x 93.4 x 82.0mm / 5.23 x 3.68 x 3.23 in
• USB 2.0
• Weight - 550g
• Price - $1299 (body only!)

Available at:

• http://www.amazon.com/DMC-GH3KBODY-16-05-Camera-3-Inch-OLED-Body/dp/B009B0WREM

Check other topic below for other countries and other US options:

http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/4641/gh3-preordering-and-availability-topic

http://www.personal-view.com/photokina/coverage/gh3 - all info about GH3 from Photokina and other sources

Watch the video in 1080p to see what I mean, anyone else get this? I'm wondering if it's a sensor problem, I'm using Sedna AQ1 patch.

I have a 20mm f/1.7 pancake lens; a 14-42mm f/3.5 kit lens and a 14-42mm Vario X f/3.5 lens. I've been recording in AVCHDp, using the following settings: MANUAL mode High Bit Rate Standard, with all other settings at +/-0 I.Dynamic & I.R (both @Standard) Continuous AF Auto White Balance f/11 Speed: 25

I've steered away from using the Pancake lens, because its focal length is fixed. So, I've been pretty pleased with results using the Vario X 14-42 lens. To date, my videos are "pretty good", but not great

If a change in my Settings don't improve my results, I would consider getting another lens. Ive been looking at the Panasonic Leica D Vario-Elmar 14-50mm, F3.8-5.6 which was an expensive kit lens with the Pana 4/3rds L10.

If I can get this video concern straightened out, I may go for a moderate hack at a later date.

Many thanks for your help.