Quite powerful light.

Price: $70

Available at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Power-T6A-LED-Video-Light-for-Canon-Panasonic-Camera-DV-Camcorder-/110962629197

http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/717/special-deals-lighting-and-lcd-1280x720-camera-monitor/p1

Does anyone have experience with this lights? I'm thinking of buying softbox also.Cheers

I'm looking for a box with one USB connection to a computer (which software?) and several DMX outputs to hook up the lights. I know you can daisy chain the lights, but to have 2 or 3 output sockets would still be of an advantage.

Vitaliy_Kiselev

You can get any for cheap, locally or on aliexpress.com. :-)

In fact, I think that Wi-Fi must be mandatory for led or fluo modern lights.

@Vitaliy_Kiselev I had a look at aliexpress, but I didn't find a DMX controller for my DN2. The DN2 has a 5 pin connector, all controllers do seem to only have 3 pin connectors (looks like XLR plugs to me).

Any information or experience reports with DMX controllers are appreciated.

I came up with this .. it's a piece of foamcore ($9 locally) and some tinned copper wire.

It's simple series wiring .. runs off 12 volts.

These particurlay LEDS are a little green, as is usual, when I am inclined i might tweak it with a sheet of minu green.

Here is a link to the type of LED strip I used.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-12V-72W-5M-300Leds-SMD-5050-Cool-White-Flexible-Led-Strip-Light-Waterproof-Led-Ribbon/632409382.html

I'm about to shoot musicians at a recording studio doing a live session. I only happen to have some diffused fill light, softbox umbrellas with fluorescent bulbs. They requested something more focused. What kind of a light should I rent? ARRI fresnels come with no dimmer, the studio is quite small, choose I the wrong wattage they'll turn more into fill-light. Will ND gels be my savior?

Or, perhaps, are there any fresnels with a dimmer or spot-lights without adjustable beam angle but having a dimmer and narrow beam out there? Can you recommend brands and models to look for?

Just received these lights from China last week. They look good. I havent had time to do any extensive testing but I was impressed with Brightness. I compared its brightness with my lightmeter about 7' away from my 5 bulb flourecent and also a 500 watt fresnel.

you can see the green x on the floor where i was taking my readings from.

my light meter was set on 400 iso

Indirect Sunlight 9 EV Direct Sunlight 15.1 EV 5 Bulb Flourecent w/ diffusion 8 EV 500 watt fresnel 9.2 EV Meking 1000 LED 10.2 EV

Hope that helps if anyone was wondering just how bright these are.

Corrugated plastic sheet 5$ Sockets and mounting parts 25$ Metal for mounting sockets and support 10$ Kino bulbs 80$ 2x dimming ballasts(two lights per) 100$

I will need to build a cover for the ballasts and then a mount for the light stand, I'll cover that as I go along.

(Please feel free to close this thread Vitaliy if you think it's too broad or you prefer PM method. I just think it might be good to have a shared information pool for people looking into LEDs.)

So I'll start: I got a 312AS light from our special deals thread, and I like it. I'm looking to possibly purchase the 508 (don't have one yet). But I notice that the 508 costs more than two of the 312AS. So I'm wondering if putting together two 312s will give you the same or more power than one 508? I know that it is very convenient to have one light with more power than putting together two separate lights. But I'm curious about the overall power between the two lights.

• Adjustable color temperature ranging from 3200k to 6000k
• Stable light, with no stroboflash or jittering
• Ultra-thin design making it portable
• Use Sony or AA batteries
• 140 High-brightness LED lights
• Power: 9W
• Flash Sync speed: 1/250s
• Lumen: 1000lm
• Color Temperature Range: 3200-6000K
• Fixed Color Temperature: L1(3200K), L2(6000K), L(4500K)
• Color Rendering Index: 85%
• Luminance angle: 55 degree
• Weight: 258g

Price: from $45 shipped

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3872.m570.l1313&_nkw=YN140%20LED%20&_sacat=625&_clu=2&_fcid=168&_localstpos&_stpos&gbr=1

First, the acronym "HMI" is not really a "type" of lighting, it's actually more of a name of a product. It's just been generalized like saying "googling" instead of "searching" when looking up something on the internet.

HMI lights are actually arc lamps from the metal halide family. These work by drawing an arc between electrodes, through a glass/ceramic/crystal envelope filled with different types of gasses and metal salts, collectively known as halides. The arc provides the power and the majority of the light, the metals and gasses change the color and spectral makeup of the light.

These bulbs need something to create the arc and then keep it regulated. These are the ignitor and ballast. The ignitor causes an initial spark to jump across the electrode gap and the ballast is a transformer that regulates the current that flows through the arc, sustaining it without letting it get too powerful or too weak. Each bulb needs a specific ballast. These usually have ANSI codes so that you can match them up. Don't expect to be able to mix and match the bulbs and ballasts. Also, don't expect to be able to get a more powerful ballast and get more light from a specific bulb, these don't work that way. There are some hacks you can do but they usually end up with very shortened bulb life or extremely hot ballasts that could catch fire.

With that said, Metal Halide lights are more efficient than tungsten. In fact, they are about 4.5x more efficient and give off very little heat. So for a 650W tungsten light, you are looking at 5.4A@120V. For the 150W MH you get the equivalent of 650W of light for 1.25A@120V.

So I started by making a small HMI type light. I gathered these parts:

6" Fresnel fixture
150w Metal halide bulb, G12 base, 3000K temp (needed M102/M142 ballast)
M142 ballast kit (ignitor, ballast, capacitor)
G12 bulb base

I bought a couple 150w bulbs. I got one from Coollights, one from GE, one cheap chinese one, and a Philips CDM. I wired everything up on the bench first and then started it up. These lights take a couple minutes to heat up and stabilize in color since they are not "hot-start". Everything worked and this light was incredibly bright.

I then modified the Fresnel fixture by removing the old bulb socket and drilling a couple holes in the bottom of the reflector/adjustment slider. I then maked some stand-offs with old aluminum tube so that the bulb would sit at the right height for the reflector.

I used this setup to test the different bulbs. I found that they all had very different colors even though they were all supposed to be 3000k temp. Most were very blue/green, especially the cheaper generic bulbs. The GE was a little better, but the Philips CDM was by far the best match for tungsten lighting. It still has a slight green hue but I added a 1/8 or 1/4 Minus Green gel and I could no longer tell the difference.

I found a nice cheap aluminum box to house the wiring, ignitor and cap and then mounted the ballast so that the majority of it was outside the box for cooling purposes. As long as the coating and paper on the ballast isn't damaged, it won't shock you.

That's all the time I have right now to type this up. I'll get some pics up in the next couple days!

This is approximately 1/3rd of the total price I paid for the entire light and about 3x the price for the 650w globes. Considering these globes are rated for around 25 hours life expectancy it works at to about $2 per hour per globe.

Can anyone suggest a supplier for A1/248 150W bulbs or equivalent that doesn't charge such ridiculous prices? - TIA

Which gel set would you recommend? Preferably, cheap and relatively good quality. I need them to work with LED lights, Redhead 800W halogen and "As ARRI" 650W tungsten fresnel lights. eBay links would be appreciated.

There are quite some cheap lighting solutions out there ranging from worklights to cheap 800W Redheads on eBay. But then the question becomes, is 800W not an overkill for GH13 and GH2, and what is an "okey" kit that would work well with GH13 and GH2.

Hopefully, others, who are in the same kind of searches as I am, would find this thread useful, so do post your ideas and advices.

To make this fun, lets set a limit of ~ £400 ($650) for the entire kit (including all the accessories, stands, softboxes, gels, lightmeters etc).

So here is my list:

• 1x 800W Redhead (£29.80 from eBay) - great for floodlight or bounce light or artificial sunlight, but might be an overkill for Gh13 and Gh2, so you might want an extra dimmer for £19. Pack of 5 bulbs £11.

• 1x 650W "As ARRI" fresnel light from eBay £120, or with dimmer £135 (Is 650W an overkill for Gh13 and Gh2 if you can shoot up to 320 ISO without any grain? Is it not better to get a 500W or 300W instead???). Also, I heard that there are at least 5 factories in China that manufacture these knock-offs. I'm personally going to stay away from a brand called "JieTu".
  That's why "As ARRI"s have mixed reviews, so you need to find an eBay seller who sells good quality and reliable "As ARRI"s. (that alone would be a good thread)

• 1x 300W "As ARRI" fresnel light £108.

• 1x Yongnuo YN-160 LED (£37.50) (+ 6600mAh batteries for Sony NP-F970 ~ £14 each. Will last ~10hours on YN160. + £5.70 for the charger.). Not the best light, but if you have a dark night scene, and don't have generators for your "As ARRI"s or permission for location, these YN160 (+ a diffuser umbrella and a long painter's pole) might save the day night. Nicely placed, it can also work as a hairlight or some other minor kind of light on set. Just remember that with YN160 every time you switch it on and off, it doesn't remember your settings and goes back to medium power - so you have to bump up the light intensity every time.
  You might also want to get the bi-color LED 312 AS or ASZ that are often posted on personal-view.com for £107 ($168) for entire pack (with 2 batteries and dual charger).

• Gels ~ £35 (Lee gels are good. I'm still deciding on which pack to get. See this discussion http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/71411#Comment_71411)

• 4 light stands (£20 each) - don't go for the ultra cheap ones . See this topi http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/71213. Sandbags, you can make them DIY.

• a fake eBay Gorrillapod (£7) - great for holding things in weird places

• a pack of bulbs for your Redhead and "As Arri"s. You never know when those bulbs will blow up, and they will blow up.

• 110cm - 5in1 Reflectors - £9 (it also contains a diffuser, in case you don't have a softbox, and you don't need a softbox if you can make a DIY wooden frame with a shower curtain)

• 33" Reflector umbrella - £3.70

• 50m Gaffer Duct Tape - £3.50

• Metal Spring clamps and wooden clamps of all sorts and sizes - ~£10

• Lightmeter ? Do we still need one for shooting digital? In 16mm world it's a must-have, but in digital...? Sekonic L-308DC is said to be designed for digital video, but quite pricey. Will a second hand Sekonic L-308S for ~£70 do the same job?

So that's it - we have a kit of 4 lights + all the accessories that may be needed on a low budget narrative film shoot. Any ideas as to how this list could be improved? Any thoughts?

Price: about $70 shipped

Available for best price at our deals

http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/717/special-deals-lighting-fresnels-evfs-monitors

Interview with charlie Collias of Zylight about their new LED fresnel. I think what's really noteworthy about this new unit is that it really seems to be an effective workhorse fresnel, but it's not a big bulky housing- it accordions down to a pretty low profile in full flood for packing and moving. The accordion design struck me as both innovative and intelligent. This unit also has a nice hard-edged shadow on the beam; it gets away from the mushy multi-shadow thing that is such a hallmark of LEDs. Remote controllable, daylight balanced, battery-powerable, this light looks like it may rise above the new pack of LED fresnels. An associate of mine at B&H was predicting this one to be a big seller once it's in wide release. Downsides? Regular tungsten fresnels are still pretty cheap to buy and rent. Until Electricity and replacement bulb prices rise up a whole lot more, I don't think there will be a wholesale adoption of this unit by the general rental house market. It's a little pricey still compared to tungsten, about 2400$ for a unit that compares outputwise to a 650w fresnel. Being daylight balanced, though, it compares favorably to the small HMIs on the market, especially when you take the replacement bulb costs into account. Overall, I think this light will be a winner for smaller productions where the production company or DP owns a lot of the gear themself. It's portability and versatility appealed to me for that market.

Tom Guiney

http://www.amazon.com/KONOVA-Video-Dimmer-Photography-Lighting/dp/B0053A8AJ0%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAIVGBEEOP6BCUGJZA%26tag%3Dfacebook150-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB0053A8AJ0

I'm a big fan of Briese lights and B2Pros. I'm due to shoot a couple of music vids for a female vocalist and this looks like a nice/cheaper alternative. Any info would be appreciated.

The plug reads: 15A/125V

Some pictures:

I'd like to have both incident and spot meter, but didn't feel like buying the top-product if something lower would suffice.

Thanks for any help :)