So I ask accurate information so as to take away any doubts.

There is a hack to shoot video in RAW or GH2 GH3? If you his name and where you can download?

I have seen on various web video of those who say they could do tests.

Also if you can be the best hacks for GH3. And the best hack with video quality and extremely stable for the GH2.

Thank you very much who will give me a hand.

John

At the time I was photographing weddings, so had two 5D mkii's at my disposal, and lots of exotic fast 'L' glass. I loaded magic lantern, and was happy with the results, particularly enjoying the focus peaking. I used a Tascam DR40 for sound, and pluraleyes to sync the footage together.

I've since finished with weddings, and parted with all of my expensive equipment. I've just picked up a used GH2 so I can do manual exposure in video and hack it to remove the 30 minute record limitation. It's soon going to be followed by another, but I'm on much tighter budget these days, so can only afford kit-level glass (F4-F5.6 territory, not constant F2.8 zooms). I don't want the framing restrictions of using old primes with adapters just to get faster apertures, as my seating position is dictated for me. Shooting at F1.8-F2 would also give me problematic depth of field for this content anyway, so I'm pretty much resigned to shooting at F4-F5.6, at the cost of having to use higher ISO's.

I have read these forums for hours and hours with fascination, regarding gop structures, encoding matrices, DCT coefficients etc... but many of the patches seem to be trying to maximise the data rate captured to get every last ounce of quality, and many people seem to also be shooting 24P.

I want to be able to capture 2.5 to 3 hours of footage on a 64 GB card, of reasonably static musicians, with low noise at sensitivity of typically ISO 1600 and 3200. All this at 1080/25p. This will be viewed on YouTube, but also down-converted to pal DVD, hence me avoiding a more web-friendly 30p, or a more filmic 24p.

I don't need fancy colour grading capabilities, or the latitude to fix exposure in post... I just need to faithfully capture what's happening after performing a manual white balance.

Can someone suggest a suitable low-noise patch for my needs please? One of Driftwoods Moon patches? An Apefos patch maybe? These have drawn my attention. There are just too many patches for me to rationalise between them all, or possibly have the time to test first-hand.

I want to stick to 64 gb cards, because of the sheer data size after a three hour concert with two or even three cameras, for both editing, and storing long term. The concert in 2013 was around 180gb of data, which is the maximum I really want to have to deal with.

looking forward to your kind input.

What are things to look out for when purchasing a used GH2? Low hours/shutter count? Do I have to look for a certain original firmware for the patches to work? There are just so many for sale on ebay & craigslist- any pointers would be great. Thanks!

I am new to this and trying to sort through all the threads to pick a hack. Having trouble sorting out which to use. I have a 95mb/s 64 GB SanDisk. I want to get the highest bitrate/quality for cinematic look, but don't want anything that pushes so hard it is not stable. I mostly want to shoot 1080p 24fps, but some higher frame rate options would be great as well.

Also, I got this camera on ebay and it had 1.1 firmware. I installed a previous hack from these forums and followed a tutorial which showed how to add the hack to a 1.0 firmware. Is that what I should do? Or do these hacks work when patching 1.1 firmware? I realize a lot of the discussion has moved on to the newer cameras, but what is a good combo of Firmware and hack for a GH2 in 2015? Recommendations?

One final question which was not clear: what should I expect to see different in the menu after the hack? How do I tell if it is applied correctly?

Thanks!

Setup - In order to achieve the higher bitrates I had to use M from the dial atop the GH2. The camera icon with the M would not allow this. The tradeoff was Auto ISO with M, and adjustable ISO with the camera icon with the M. I use mostly Canon FD lenses.

1a) Bitrates - I have tried a few hacks with varying success. The best I have got is about 100MB with Flow Motion v2.02, however, most of the shots I got with this hack seem to be from 70MB-90MB. I tried Flow Motion, Driftwood's Moon T7, and two Driftwood hacks (176MB & 220MB) from a pack made by the user Sohus on this forum.

Is it common to be well below the stated bitrate amounts?

1b) AVCHD vs MJPEG - I never seemed to get very high bitrates when using 1080i, despite the hacks stating to be much higher. They would range from 15MB-40MB. To achieve higher bitrates with Flow Motion, I used MJPEG which boosted them much higher.

Shouldn't I be achieving high bitrates with AVCHD?

2) Auto ISO - Whenever I use M (from PASM) the ISO would always be set to Auto ISO. I could adjust the ISO when using the camera icon mode (with the M), but then the bitrates would suffer. I tried changing the ISO before shooting, but Auto ISO would kick in no matter what.

How do I change the ISO while in M mode?

3) EV - I know that EV depends upon shutter, aperture, and ISO, but I can see the EV when I push the Display button so I was hoping there was still a way to change it.

Am I correct to assume that because I am using Canon FD lenses I cannot use EV? Even if using a Panasonic lens, how do I change the EV (I tried, but failed).

4) Modes - I have only been able to use the hacked bitrates - and only to a certain degree - by using M with MJPEG.

What modes should I be using to use the hacked patches? The camera icon with M? High Bitrate? 24P? 1080i?

Sorry for all the questions. I am not unhappy with the camera, but I really want to know why the bitrates are not working? And moreso, why the Auto ISO can't be changed (as I don't like the amount of noise it can introduce)? Thank you!

Have been using DSLR's for a few years now, mainly for family videos as well as a couple of paid wedding gigs. Over the years I have always favored the cinematic look, that being obeying 180 degree shutter rule, using shallow DOF and color grading my work (and maybe adding letter-boxing in as well)

What I have continued to find hard over the years is controlling my exposure in fast run and gun situations, times when the kids are running around and maybe at weddings when the lighting conditions are constantly changing. From day one I have used variable ND filters to control exposure, I have now settled on a Genustech Model which gives no loss of sharpness or any colour casting.

Using this Filter I would normally set my camera to manual, set the shutter to 1/50 and then select my desired aperture and then simply control the exposure while I am recording by turning the ND filter until exposure is correct. This works in controlled environments but in most run and gun scenarios there is no such thing as a controlled environment, and using the above method I find myself constantly turning the ND filter clockwise, anticlockwise in hurry to nail the exposure before the moment I am trying to capture is lost. This sometimes results in underexposed/overexposed footage, as well as completely missed footage where I haven't managed to get the exposure right in time as well as trying to manual control the focus and then the moment is gone.

In recent videos I have gone as far as not using an ND filter and setting my camera to shutter priority mode. This way I can keep the constant shutter speed and the camera controls the exposure automatically for me through the aperture. the obvious problem with this is the aperture is constantly changing and in bright day light this can sometimes mean an aperture at around F16-F22 which then degrades the quality of the image and also you lose any shallow DOF you might have wanted.

I have also swung the other way and used Aperture Priority mode. The pro of this is I now get control of my depth of field and the camera automatically controls my exposure by using the shutter. The main problem with this is you lose control of the shutter speed and disobey the 180 rule therefore footage looks like Saving Private Ryan or Crank!

So that is where I am at...can others let me know their own experiences and how they have obtained a happy medium in filming footage that looks as good as it can be without causing a lot of headaches in the process.

Can anyone please help or show me the correct hack, or link to it?

Thanks,

I just recorded a couple of hours of footage at a concert (the files averaged 32Mb/s), with separate sound using a TASCAM DR-40. When I bring these all together using Plural-eyes to sync, it's showing on average three dropped frames between each video clip.

Can anyone confirm if this is common with all spanning on Panasonic m4/3's please, and/or suggest reliable 25 fps settings.ini that will not drop any frames when spanning on a G3?

On a separate note, I was really hoping the camera would do better in low light recording, but ptools does not seem to remove the high ISO limit for the G3 at all. Has anyone managed to get the High ISO removal to work with the G3, or is this dependent upon a manual exposure hack for the G3?

I assume that there will be no further ptools features for the G3 now, as Vitaliy seemed to last be active on it all a couple of years ago now?

All advice gratefully received. Regards Craig

I can't seem to use it on the newer MBPr.

Best regards,

D

I have formatted the SD before and afterwards and have tried every option I can think of (downloaded new PTools, used a variety of different digits V20 etc) and no closer after several nights of trying to figure this out

Im using an 16 gb Sandisk SDHC class 10 card

I have searched high and low for anyone with a similar GF2 issue in these forums to no avail. Apologies in advance if I have posted this in the wrong place. But any help or direction would be much appreciated!

I am using a 32 gb sandisk extreme pro 90mpbs

Great forum hope to here for many a year learning about this somewhat, for me complex Lumix camera. Linz1

EDIT: Just reverted back to original firmware and the HBR mode records only at 29 mbs. When before it was around 50. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

I'm trying to decide whether to hold off updating the firmware on this camera body. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Any advice is appreciated, thank you!

see the image attached: each table has 48 numbers, what is the configuration? option A = 3x16, option B = 4x12, option C = 6 x 8

thanks in advance.

I was hoping someone here could clarify if this video appears to be using slow motion or not, and if so what FPS they are likely using. Thank you